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------->BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE<--------

      The On-Line Text Edition

         Volume III, No. 2

  "THE # 1 MAGAZINE ON TRAVEL, LIFE,
     AND RETIREMENT IN BELIZE AND
       ON THE CARIBBEAN COAST"

This issue features reports on Cayo District,
Placencia, Ambergris Caye, Real Estate in Belize,
Cruising the Casual Coast, Best Guides and Other
Belize Books, Hotel Updates, Recommended Hotels, and
More

Traditional paper magazine edition with maps and
photos also available.  Contact Belize First for
details.

You can visit us at our new Web site which when
completed will be the most-
comprehensive, non-commercial interactive site on Belize
anywhere on-line:

http://www.turq.com/belizefirst

E-mail us at:  [e-mail]

Copyright 1996 by Lan Sluder

All Rights Reserved

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BELIZE FIRST is your guide to travel and life in
Belize and the rest of the Caribbean Coast of
Central America and Mexico.   We publish the leading
travel writers and reporters covering the region.

Belize First presents candid, independent views,
always putting the READER first.

Regular features include:

Ñ  Latest news from Belize and the Caribbean Coast

Ñ  Candid critiques of hotels and lodges from
readers and friends (who get a free pound of fresh-
roasted Central American coffee when their reviews
are printed)

Ñ  Living, working,  and retiring in Belize and
other English-speaking areas of the Caribbean Coast

Ñ  Buying land or a house in Belize

Ñ  Eco-traveling in the rain forests and bush of
Belize

Ñ  Diving and snorkeling around Belize's atolls and
barrier reef

Ñ  Visiting Mayan sites in Belize, Honduras,
Guatemala and Mexico

Ñ  And more ... in 100+ fact-filled pages in every
issue

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IN THIS ISSUE:

What to Expect from Belize First Magazine

Editorial Opinion:  Ouch!  New Taxes and Fees Hurt
Belizeans and Belize Travelers, by Lan Sluder

Letters to the Editor:  Stings and Flowers

In Case You Missed It:  News Round-Up from Belize

SPECIAL REPORT:  Cayo District, Wild & Free
By Richard Mahler and Steele Wotkyns

Update on Caracol -- New Access Procedures

AREA UPDATE ON PLACENCIA:

* New & Recommended Hotels, by Peter Eltringham

* A New Way to Retire, by Peggy Bond Arbanas

* Belize Food, by Vic Moffett

An Ordinary Day on Ambergris Caye, by Judy Waytiuk

Cruising the Casual Coast, a Trip on the Temptress
Voyager by Marshall Krantz

Best Books on Belize, Reviews of 26 Books and Maps,
by Lan Sluder (Some earn the "Recommended by Belize
First Stamp of Approval)

Real Estate For Sale

Updates on Hotels in Belize City, Hopkins, Orange
Walk District, Cayo, Ambergris Caye, and elsewhere

Hotels Recommended by Belize First


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WHAT TO EXPECT FROM BELIZE FIRST
MAGAZINE

As a reader of  BELIZE FIRST, you have a right to
know what we stand for:

1.  To put you, the reader, first.  Not advertisers,
not the subjects of our stories.  But YOU.

2.  To cover the entire spectrum of travel and life
in Belize and the Caribbean Coast, that hard-to-
define but unique region of Central America and
Mexico,  and beyond, stretching along the tropical
edges of the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico.

3.  To promote the region as a desirable place to
live.

4.  To publish the best writing about Belize and the
Caribbean Coast.

5.  To work for the economic betterment of Belize
and the other areas of the Caribbean Coast.

6.  To promote sustainable, responsible,
ecologically sensitive tourism in this wonderful and
still little-known region.

7.  To work to make the region safer for both
citizens and travelers alike.

8.  To provide candid, independent reporting without
any hidden agenda  ╤ we have no connection with any
political party or ideology, or to any business or
other group.

9.  To avoid any interference with the internal
affairs of Belize or any other country in the
region.

10. To work to provide more opportunity for
Belizeans, and the citizens of other countries in
the region, to manage their own affairs and to
benefit from the investment of their own time and
money.


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              MASTHEAD

BELIZE FIRST is published quarterly in Asheville,
North Carolina,  by Equator Travel Publications,
Inc., 280 Beaverdam Road, Candler, NC  28715  USA.
Fax [phone].  E-mail:  Internet,
[e-mail]; CompuServe,
74763,2254;
America On-Line, LSluder374.

Mail subscriptions for the "collector's" full
magazine edition in Reader's Digest-style format
with photos, maps, and other elements not included
in our text on-line or Web editions are US$29 or
BZ$58 a year in North America and Belize, US$45 a
year in other countries.  Electronic text-only
editions of BELIZE FIRST are available on
CompuServe, America On-Line, and the Internet.  Also
visit our new Internet Web site at
http://www.turq.com/belizefirst.

⌐   Copyright 1996. All rights reserved under
international and Pan-American copyright
conventions.

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--Editorial--

OUCH!

Tourism Industry and Tourists
Hit Hard by New Taxes and Fees

By LAN SLUDER
Editor and Publisher

On your next trip to Belize, better bring a
fatter wallet.

Nearly everything is going to cost you more.

The new 15 percent Value Added Tax,  in effect
April 1, isn't charged on hotel rooms.  But it will
reach out and touch you just about everywhere else.
It applies to food and beverage sales in
restaurants, tours, diving trips, boat charters,
and other common expenses of visitors.  If you don't
think that will have an impact, just talk to
Canadians who well know what the introduction a few
years ago of the VAT did to the hospitality industry
there.

Fees to visit archeological sites such as
Lamanai and Caracol were set to jump as much as
1,000 percent -- with entrance fees of up to US$10
per day per person -- although now the plan is to
phase them in more slowly, with the increase for
non-Belizeans being only 500 percent as of April 1.

New beer and alcohol drink taxes have increased
the cost of imbibing by about  20 percent.  The
airport departure tax is expected to go up to US$15
per person and the room tax may increase to as much
as 12 percent, from the present 7 percent, observers
say.

Belize, like many countries in the world, is
trying to balance its budget in part on the backs of
tourists. Tourists, it is thought, don't vote.

But of course they vote:  With their feet.

Tourists follow value.  If they don't get value
in one place, they'll find it in another.  The
values available today in Mexico, in comparison with
the prices in Belize,  are one reason why I hear
from so many lodge and hotel operators in Belize
that occupancy is down now.  That's during a period
when the hurricane damage to several islands in the
Caribbean should have boosted visitation to Belize.

No, I don't believe Belize needs to discount.
Belize offers a quality vacation experience, and
it's fair to charge for that value.   My wife and I
recently paid US$400 for one night at an inn on
Cumberland Island on the coast of Georgia, and we
considered it a good value.  Not one that we could
afford very often, but good value for a delightful
time on an island of great natural beauty.  Many
places in Belize offer excellent value, in all price
ranges.  Chan Chich offers it at one level, for
example, and Dave and Debbie's Last Resort in
Placencia at another.  Likewise, US$10 a head for
entry to Caracol may be worth it, if the money goes
to keeping the sites safe, well-maintained,  and
free from poachers.  But a ten-fold increase seems
steep by any measure.

Belize must offer real value to travelers.  If a
tourist pays US$20 for a meal and gets canned peas,
that's not value.  If he pays US$150 a night for a
hotel room and has to sleep on a $99 mattress,
that's not value.  If she pays US$100 a day for a
beat-up rental car, gets hustled for spare change in
Belize City,  and then is tapped US$15 for a short
taxi ride to the airport and another $15 for a
departure fee, that doesn't leave a good taste, nor
a recollection of good value.

Tourism is now the leading source of foreign
exchange for Belize.  It's the No. 1 industry in
Belize.  It's going to do nothing but get bigger and
bigger.  If the tourists aren't taxed to death and
driven off by high prices.

//Lan Sluder is editor and publisher of BELIZE
FIRST.  He recently authored Frommer's Best Beach
Vacations:  Carolinas and Georgia, published by
Macmillan, and has contributed to many magazines and
newspapers around the world.

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LETTERS, FAXES, E-MAIL TO THE EDITOR

BELIZE FIRST welcomes letters to the editor.  Send
them to BELIZE FIRST, 280 Beaverdam Road, Candler,
NC  28715 USA,  fax to 704-667-1717 or e-mail them
via the Internet to [e-mail].
Letters, which are subject to editing for brevity or
clarity,  must be signed.  Please include your
address and telephone number.

To the Editor:

The following are some corrections to information
presented in a piece on San Antonio, Toledo, in Vol.
III, No. 1 of BELIZE FIRST.  I have also included
some additional, more-detailed information, as I
thought it might be helpful to those planning a
visit to Toledo District.

Ñ  I have to say I am perplexed by Harry Pariser's
reference to "women, members of an obscure Christian
sect, wearing head shawls" in San Antonio.  Some
women, as they walk about the village, cover their
heads with light-weight white terrycloth towels or
shawls simply to protect themselves from the sun's
heat.  The majority of the villagers are Catholic,
so some of the older women are in the habit of
covering their heads when they enter the church,
much as my grandmothers continued to do even after
Vatican II.  Women belonging to the two Mennonite
groups in the village are obligated to cover their
heads with a small kerchief.

Ñ The San Antonio village phone is currently in
the home of Ben Bol who lives in a cement house on
top of a hill near the Catholic church and the
hotel.  There is a Belize Telecommunications, Ltd.
(BTL) sign on the door.

Ñ The Feast of San Antonio is held on June 13.
There are no costumed dancers on this occasion,
although there is a movement in the village to
eventually revive costumed dancing on special days
during the year such as this.  For the past few
years there has been a mass in the church and
marimba music, food, and social dancing in the
village's multi-purpose building to celebrate this
occasion.

Ñ  Costumed dancers perform the Deer Dance for the
Feast of San Luis which is held on August 25 (not
September 25), although the festivities begin on the
evening of August 15.  The dancers perform during
the day at various houses from August 16 through 23.
Anyone is welcome to come to the houses and watch
the dancers.  In addition to dancing, on the 23rd,
the tak'in che' or "money tree" is brought into the
village and placed near the church.  On the 25th,
the tree is greased and a prize consisting of money
and rum is attached to the top.  Throughout the day,
villagers attempt to climb it and the costumed
dancers perform.  In 1995, it became official policy
that those wishing to take photographs or video
footage of the Deer Dance must make a monetary
contribution to the fiesta.

Ñ  Getting there:  There are a few different bus
lines which run between Punta Gorda and San Antonio.
Buses never leave PG for the villages as late as 4
p.m.  On Mondays, Wednesdays,  Fridays, and
Saturdays Chun's bus leaves San Antonio at 5:30 a.m.
for PG.  It returns to the village at 12 noon on
Mondays and Fridays or 12:30 p.m. on Wednesdays and
Saturdays.

On Wednesdays and Saturdays (market days in PG), a
second bus (also owned by the Chuns) runs from
Pueblo Viejo to PG.  This bus leaves San Antonio on
Tuesday and Friday evenings about 5 p.m. and travels
westward to Pueblo Viejo.  The next morning it
passes through San Antonio at about 5 a.m. on its
way to town.  Its leaves PG at 12 noon for Pueblo
Viejo, passing through San Antonio at about 1 p.m.
After dropping its passengers off in Pueblo Viejo on
Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, the bus returns
to San Antonio.

I include this information on Pueblo Viejo because
tourists often find it convenient to base themselves
in San Antonio and make excursions from there.  You
may, for example, take Chun's Pueblo bus to the
nearby archaeological site of Uxbenka and waterfalls
which it passes on its way back to Pueblo Viejo on
Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, then catch the
bus again on its way back to San Antonio a few hours
later.

Finally, Prim's bus has service between San
Antonio and PG on Wednesdays and Saturdays, leaving
San Antonio at 5 a.m. and PG at noon.

Missy Garber
Clarence, NY

Editor's reply:  Thank you for the corrections.
We appreciate your expert comments based on your
experience while working and studying in Toledo
District.

From another correspondent in Toledo, Alfredo
Villoria, we add this information about the Deer
Dance:  "Tourists that visited Toledo during
December (1995) were treated to two activities
seldom seen by outsiders.  During the early part of
December,  in Punta Gorda town, the traditional Maya
Deer Dance was performed at the Central Plaza by 14
costumed Mayas from various villages.  Just before
Christmas a group of 28 KekchÆ  dancers performed
the Cortez dance. The first time any of the
Maya/KekchÆ  dances were performed for the public
was about ten years ago.

To the Editor:

I just returned after being there for two weeks.
My  first week was spent out on Turneffe Islands'
Caye Bokel (Turneffe Island Lodge) which was totally
great.  My second week I stayed at the Colton House
for two nights, and went horseback riding (M.E.T.--
what a fabulous location!!), climbing the ruins,
swimming in the Riù  On (and other)  pools.  I could
certainly write a righteous  travelogue about Belize
and the wonderful, friendly, kind Belizean  people I
met, who took me into their homes and fed me, gave
me gifts.  It was one of my best trips ever, and a
dream come true for me.  I  only wish I could have
stayed longer.  The Belize "Fan Club" now has  a new
member:  ME!

Joanie Fuhry
Santa Cruz, California

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IN CASE YOU MISSED IT

News Round-Up from Belize

VALUE ADDED TAX IN EFFECT APRIL 1   The new
VAT tax
went into effect April 1 in Belize.  Under the new
Act, the tax is charged whenever goods change hands
or services are performed.    The rate of the new
VAT is 15 percent of the value of the goods or
services. However, some goods and services are zero-
rated.   In addition, certain services are exempt.
These include medical, dental, hospital, and optical
services (other than cosmetic surgery), domestic
travel and freight services within Belize, training
and education, supply of electricity, public postal
services, and leases of residential property.   To
offset the VAT, import duties are supposed to be
reduced, and the stamp duties tax is to be
eliminated.  The government has dropped the 14
percent stamp duty on many grocery items including
include processed cheese, spices,  maize (corn),
flour, vegetable oil, chicken,  bacon, luncheon
meat,  mackerel, breakfast cereals,  and some 30
other items.  When Canada introduced its VAT in the
early 1990s, the country went into an economic down
spiral from which it has only recently begun to
recover.  The main opposition party, the People's
United Party, has said it will scrap the VAT if it
beats the United Democratic Party in the next
national elections in 1998.  Further information
about the new Act may be had from the VAT Unit at
the government's Custom Department, Belize City,
telephone [phone].

FAMED MAYAN HEALER PANTI DIES AT 103  Elijio
Panti,
the Mayan traditional healer who had attracted
worldwide attention to the herbs and methods used in
Mesoamerica, died Feb. 4 in the village of San
Antonio in Cayo District at age 103, following a
stroke.  Born in Guatemala, Panti had lived in Cayo
for eight decades.   Rosita Arvigo helped spread
Panti's fame  in her 1994 book on Mayan healing,
Sastun.  According to Panti's great-grandson, Ladis
Tzib,  who was trained in the Mayan healing arts by
Panti, Don Elijio's last words  were:  "Thank  you.
I am satisfied. I am ready to sleep now."

133,000 TOURISTS ARRIVE BY AIR IN 1995 The
Belize
Tourist Board estimates that 133,000 tourists
arrived in Belize through the international airport
in 1995, up about 11 percent from 120,000 arrivals
in 1994.  The figures do not include visitors
arriving by land from Mexico, Guatemala, or
Honduras.   The total arrivals by air, sea, and
land, including day-trippers from Mexico and other
adjoining countries, was 345,000 in 1994, up about 9
percent from the previous year.  1994 is the latest
year for which World Tourism Organization figures
are available.  In 1994, cruise passenger arrivals
in Belize totaled 13,000, double the number of the
year before.  Here are total tourist arrivals by
Central American country for 1994, counting day
visitors, according to the WTO:  1) Costa Rica,
761,000  2) Belize, 345,000 3) Nicaragua, 236,000 4)
Honduras,  227,000  5) Guatemala,  138,000 6) El
Salvador, 58,200  7) Panama, 33,400.

SOUTHERN HIGHWAY IMPROVEMENTS BEGIN  In
late
February, a Costa Rican construction firm began work
on upgrading about 18 miles of gravel road between
Big Falls and Cattle Landing near Punta Gorda.  The
next step in this US$10 million project is paving
this section.  Eventually,  the entire Southern
Highway will be paved, opening up all of Southern
Belize to increased development and tourism.

BEER AND SOFT DRINK SALES PLUNGE  Sales of
Belikin
beer and soft drinks bottled by Bowen and Bowen have
declined by as much as 30 percent in recent months,
in part in response to higher taxes put in place on
these items in November.  Reportedly there has been
an increase in the smuggling in of Mexican beer,
which is cheaper than Belize beer.  New taxes have
raised the price of Belizean beer by one-fifth.

PIONEERING CENTRAL AMERICAN JOURNALIST
RICHARD DYER
DIES One of the pioneers of quality journalism and
travel information in Central America, Richard
(Dick) Dyer, publisher of the weekly Costa Rica
newspaper, The Tico Times,  died of heart failure at
age 84 Jan. 28 at his home in Escazu near San Jose,
Costa Rica.   With, Betty,  his wife, Dyer in 1956
helped establish The Tico Times, winner of many
honors for excellence in reporting, including the
Inter-American Press Association Grand Prize for
Press Freedom in 1995. The newspaper, which has a
circulation of 16,000 in 40 countries, is directed
primarily to an audience of expatriate North
Americans in Costa Rica and to those outside the
country with an interest in traveling or living in
Costa Rica.

Dyer fought against press control and censorship and
was a leader in the battle against state controls on
journalists, a battle that was won in May 1995 when
the Costa Rica Supreme Court handed down a decision
that ended obligatory licensing of journalists
working in Costa Rica, a practice considered an
affront to the otherwise democratic traditions of
Costa Rica.  The Tico Times will "continue to
publish as always," according to editors at the
newspaper.   Dyer's daughter Dery Dyer has edited
the newspaper for many years.

GOVERNMENT TRIES TO TAX TRAVEL BOOKS
According to
Harry Pariser, author of the Adventure Guide to
Belize, a popular travel guide to the country, and
also author of other travel guides to the region,
the Belize government is attempting to levy a nearly
60 percent custom duty on his guidebooks.  Officials
are "unfairly judging them to be advertising" due to
the fact that rates are included in listings of
hotels, Pariser says.   This makes it "impossible,
owing to the 59% or so duty,  to be profitable to
sell them in the country,"   says Pariser.  He calls
the customs duty "ridiculous" and says his books
have been shipped back to the U.S.

NEW BELIZE FIRST WEB SITE  The new address of
BELIZE
FIRST Magazine's Internet World Wide Web site is
http://www.turq.com/belizefirst.  The site is being
expanded to include, among other things, the text of
back issues of BELIZE FIRST.  "Our goal is to have
the biggest and most informative Belize site
anywhere on-line," says Lan Sluder, editor and
publisher.  "We want to give travelers to Belize
from around the world candid and comprehensive
information about travel, life, and retirement in
Belize."

BELIZE CITY ELECTIONS  On March 18th, 1996,
residents of Belize went to the polls to elect a new
Belize City Council.   For the first time in
Belize's history there were four political parties
contesting the election:  the United Democratic
Party (UDP);  the Peoples Democratic Party (PDP);
the Peoples United Party (PUP);  and the National
Alliance for Belizean Rights (NABR).  Incumbent PUP
won a ringing endorsement from voters, with almost
56 percent of the 120,089  votes cast.  Although
many expected PUP to win in its Belize City strong-
hold, the margin of victory exceeded expectations.
Top vote getters were all  on the PUP ticket:  Olga
Gordon, 8,151;  JosÄ  Coye, 8,776;  Merilyn Young,
8,270;  Adrian Madrid, 8,209; Darrell Carter, 8,259;
David Fonseca,  8,488; Marshall Nuqez, 8,281;  Steve
Latchman, 8,257;  Erick Kirkwood, 8,153.   Total:
66,691 for PUP.  The UDP, which is the ruling party
nationally now, got 44,670.  The NABR received 4,713
votes, and the PDP, 4,015.

MAYAS TO MONITOR TOLEDO LOGGING
CONCESSION   Maya
leaders in Toledo District and the government have
agreed that the Mayas would monitor the activities
of a Malaysian company's one-year concession to log
the Columbia River Forest Reserve, according to
reports from our correspondent, Alfredo Villoria, in
Punta Gorda.  The Mayan community will monitor the
activities of Atlantic Industries Co. for strict
adherence to the forestry management plan as
developed by the U.K.-based Overseas Development
Agency.   Contrary to some other reports, the
controversial concession, opposed by a coalition of
environmental groups,  has not been cancelled or
revoked. The Mayas submitted to the government a
list of concerns,  and most of these were agreed to
by the Prime Minister.

FEES FOR BELIZE MAYA SITES JUMP, THEN ARE
EASED BACK
Fees for admission to Maya sites were increased by
as much as ten-fold in early 1996, but then the
increase was at least temporarily eased to a maximum
of only five-fold.  Under the plan originally
introduced by the government, non-Belizeans would
pay up to US$10 per person for entry to Lamanai and
to Caracol, which previously had been US$1.  Rates
for Belizeans were set generally at one-half that
for non-Belizeans, with Belizeans under 12 and over
65 free.  However, as of April 1, the fees for non-
Belizeans were set as follows:  Caracol and Lamanai,
US$5 per person per day;  Cerros, Nim Li Punit,
Xunantunich, Cahal Pech, and Altun Ha, US$2.50.  It
is apparently the view of the government and of some
in the tourism industry that US$10 is not too high
an entrance fee, but that the increase was too
steep.

DESPITE CLAIMED ONE-THIRD DROP, CRIME
CONTINUES IN
BELIZE  A government report on major crime in Belize
showed a 31 percent drop late in 1995 compared with
1994, but crime continues to make front-page news in
the country's newspapers.  A December murder of a
store clerk in broad daylight on Albert Street was
but one in a series of recent high-profile crime to
outrage the law-abiding citizens of Belize City.
Outside Belize City, crime also remains a serious
problem.  Four murders occurred within a few days
last fall, two in Cayo District and two in Orange
Walk District.  A series of highway robberies took
place in late 1995 and early 1996 both on the
Southern Highway and on the Western Highway.  Some
Belizeans blame Honduran and Guatemalan workers who
have lost their jobs in Belize but who have refused
to go back to their countries.

MARUBA GUESTS ROBBED  Eight men, armed with
sawed-
off shotguns and machetes,  in December held up
guests and hotel staff at Maruba Resort on the Old
Northern Highway near Altun Ha.  The Spanish-
speaking gunmen invaded the hotel grounds at dinner
time.  They took cash and jewelry from the shocked
and frightened guests.

BELIZE RANKS HIGH ON HUMAN DEVELOPMENT
INDEX  Belize
ranks third in the Western Hemisphere, behind Canada
and the U.S., and tied with Costa Rica, on the
United Nations Human Development Index which
includes an assessment of political freedom, racial
and gender equality, health, education, and other
factors.  On a world basis, Belize ranks 28th of 174
countries.  On a 100-point scale, here are rankings
for the top 10 countries in the Western Hemisphere:
Canada, 95;  U.S., 93.8;  Belize, 88.4;  Costa Rica,
88.4;  Argentina, 88.3;  Uruguay, 88.1;  Chile, 88;
Venezuela, 85.9;  Panama, 85.6;  and Mexico, 84.2.

NEW MARINE RESEARCH CENTRE  University
College of
Belize has opened a Marine Research Centre at
Calabash Caye.   Built by Coral Caye Conservation
provides training for Belizeans in monitoring and
the managing of marine coastal resources.
Eventually international visitors may have access to
the center for eco-touristic activities.  The Centre
is  located on a five-acre plot on the east coast of
Calabash Caye, on the southeastern side of the
Turneffe Atoll, about 32 miles from Belize City.

ONE-FOURTH OF BELIZE GOVERNMENT
SPENDING GOES TO
DEBT SERVICE  About 25 percent of government
spending goes to service debt.  This level of
spending exceeds even the debt service of the United
States, which totals about 15 percent of outlays.

UNLEADED GAS NOW AVAILABLE IN BELIZE
Unleaded
premium gas is now available at Shell, Texaco, and
Esso stations in Belize.

AIRSTRIP OPENED NEAR LAMANAI  An airstrip has
been
opened about three-quarters of a mile from the ruins
at Lamanai.  The strip has been criticized by some
for its negative environmental impact on wildlife
and on the ruins.

CITRUS INDUSTRY AT RISK  Belize's citrus industry
is
threatened by citrus tristeza virus and the
situation could worsen when an aphid, the brown
citrus aphid, an efficient carrier of the virus and
already found in Florida, arrives in Belize.  Trees
hit by the virus almost always die.  The majority of
the producing orchards in Belize are on sour orange
rootstock, susceptible to the virus.  Studies are
being conducted on ways to delay or prevent the
spread of the virus, using biological agents.  A ban
has been put into effect on importing citrus
planting materials.

HOW STABLE IS BELIZE DOLLAR?  One argument for
the
massive Value Added Tax put in place April 1 is that
it will help keep the Belize dollar stable.  Some
observers note, however, that with Belize's high
debt service (25 percent of government spending),
faltering economy,  and high levels of imports, the
Belize dollar, now effectively pegged to the U.S.
dollar at 2 to 1, could become under devaluation
pressure, similar in a small way to the situation
which has driven the Mexican peso down to less than
one-half of its late 1994 value.

NEW TELEPHONE DIRECTORY COVER SWINGS
The
1996
Belize Telecommunications Ltd. national telephone
directory cover features two photos of the Swing
Bridge in Belize City, one taken in 1942 and one in
1995.

ATTACKS ON TOURISTS IN GUATEMALA AND
COSTA RICA  In
February, robbers killed two women tourists, a U.S.
and a British citizen, near Lake Atitlç n in
Guatemala.  In late 1995, three other foreign
tourists, two Americans and one Mexican, were
murdered in Guatemala.  In Costa Rica, the
kidnapping of a German and a Swiss woman on the
Caribbean coast and other high-profile crimes
against tourists, has contributed to, at least
temporarily, a dip in tourist visitation.

BELIZE GETS NEW AIR SERVICE FROM ROATτ N
Caribbean
Air, flying 30-passenger DC-9s, has begun flights
between Roatç n and Belize City twice weekly, on
Saturdays and Sundays.

SAN PEDRO SUN GOES ON-LINE  The San Pedro
Sun,
Ambergris Caye's weekly newspaper, went on-line in
February.  Its site on the World Wide Web contains
selected articles from the newspaper and information
about San Pedro.  The Web site is at
http://www.turq.com/sanpdrosun.  The Reporter also
is on-line, at http://www.belize.com.

BILLIONAIRE DIPLOMAT?  Kenneth Dart, billionaire
investor and cup maker, who renounced his U.S.
citizenship and became a Belize citizen as a way to
avoid U.S. income taxes, is seeking to open a new
Belize diplomatic post in Sarasota, Fla., where Dart
lives.  If Dart spends more than a month a year in
Florida, he could lose his tax advantages, but as a
diplomat, he could live in Sarasota year-round.

WALL STREET FINANCIAL BUYS CARCON  Wall
Street
Financial Corporation, traded on the over-the-
counter market in the U.S.,  in October 1995
acquired all of the shares of CarCon, Ltd., an
architectural, engineering,  and development company
in Belize, according to WSF Chairman Gerhart W.
Walch.  WSF is an owner of the Mayan Salt Creek
Estate,  31,435 acres located near the Belize
International Airport, with approximately 20 miles
of shoreline and connected lagoons.  The estate has
operated for about a century as an agricultural and
timber farm.  CarCon has changed its name to Mayan
Resort Development Co., Ltd. and appointed Tony
Gedeon as its managing director. The company
recently completed constructing the personal
residence of the Minister of Agriculture of Belize,
among other projects. The company says it is
currently reviewing various development proposals
for resort development.

U.S. BANK REGULATORS WARN ABOUT PHONY
BELIZE BANKS
Banking regulators in the U.S., acting on advice
from the Central Bank of Belize, have issued
warnings about companies wrongly claiming to be
Belize banks.  There are only four banks with
legitimate licenses to operate in Belize, according
to the Central Bank of Belize:    Atlantic Bank
Ltd., Barclays Bank Plc, Belize Bank Ltd., and
Scotiabank.

GULF OF HONDURAS TOURISM INITIATIVE
LAUNCHED  In
December, a private sector tourism initiative called
the Gulf of Honduras Sustainable Tourism Project was
launched in Puerto Barrios, Guatemala, with
representatives from Toledo District, Belize, and
Puerto Cortez, Honduras.  The project's goals are to
strengthen the economies of the region, to attract
tourists, and to conserve natural resources.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

SPECIAL REPORT:

CAYO DISTRICT

Rustic Riverside Cottages, Eerie Caves,
Few Bugs, and Little-Known Mayan Sites
Are Part of the Growing Appeal of the Cayo

By RICHARD MAHLER and STEELE WOTKYNS

Until the late 1980s, few of Belize╒s visitors
ventured west of the Belize Zoo unless they were
heading across the Guatemalan border to Tikal. The
conventional wisdom was that, except for the capital
of Belmopan and the Mayan ruins of Xunantunich,
there was not much to see in the country╒s interior.

Fortunately, the infrastructure of the interior has
improved to the point where many rewarding
destinations can (and should) be added to any
visitor╒s itinerary. Besides the country╒s most
extensive collection of Mayan ruins and a growing
number of comfortable lodges, Belize╒s interior
offers the best opportunity to encounter the
marvelous flora and fauna of a relatively
undisturbed subtropical forest. Although some of the
nation╒s newest sanctuaries and reserves offer
virtually no access to the casual visitor, others
provide an ╥up close and personal╙ experience one is
not likely to forget. In addition, there are caves,
rivers, horse paths, waterfalls, ruins, nature
trails, and campsites galore, just waiting to be
discovered╤in some cases quite literally, since much
of the interior remains virtually untouched by
humans.

With an estimated 1995 population of 40,000, Cayo
(Spanish for ╥small island╙) is the second-largest
and fastest-growing district of Belize. The capital
city of Belmopan lies at the district╒s eastern
edge, and Benque Viejo anchors its western border
with Guatemala. In between these two small towns, a
visitor will find some of the nation╒s richest
farmland, at times so carefully manicured by
Mennonites that it looks more like the rolling hills
of rural Pennsylvania than Central America. Besides
cattle, poultry, and pigs, Cayo farmers raise corn,
sorghum, beans, fruit, and various vegetables for
both domestic consumption and export. Significant
amounts of pine, rosewood, Santa MarÆ a, cedar, and
mahogany are harvested by local lumber interests.
One of the district╒s most important industries is
tourism. Travelers have much to choose from here:
Mayan ruins, jungle trails, horseback rides,
whitewater rivers, bird-watching, canoe trips, and
such natural wonders as cascading waterfalls and
limestone caves. The flora and fauna of Cayo are
varied and plentiful. Such attractions have been
enhanced in recent years by development of an
infrastructure that caters to the needs and
interests of even the most discriminating visitor,
offering everything from wilderness campgrounds to
luxurious villas.

San Ignacio╤22 miles west of Belmopan and 9 miles
from the Guatemala border╤is the largest town in the
Cayo District and a fine place to have a meal, mail
a post card, fill the gas tank, fix a flat tire,
exchange currency, and load up on supplies. There
are many pleasant hotels in San Ignacio, although
most visitors prefer to find accommodations in the
surrounding countryside. The town is laid out on a
series of bluffs alongside the Macal River, at an
elevation high enough to be noticeably cooler and
less humid than the coastal plain. The people are
friendly and happy-go-lucky, pointing with pride at
their Hawkesworth bridge: a scaled down version of
the Brooklyn Bridge erected in the late 1940s and
still the only suspension span in the country.
(Until 1992, the one-way bridge also boasted the
only traffic signal in Belize.) Locals will also
steer you to the partially restored Mayan ruin of
Cahal Pech, just up Main Street at the crest of a
hill, and to Serendib, a Sri Lankan restaurant
justifiably revered for its spicy curry. Another
good dining spot and social hub is Eva╒s Restaurant
(tel.  [phone]), across Burns Avenue from
Serendib, run by English expatriate Bob Jones and
his Belizean wife, Nestora. Wide-ranging travel tips
and assistance are cheerfully dispensed at Eva╒s,
the unofficial tourist information center for
western Belize. Among other note-worthy stops are
the well-stocked souvenir shop and bookstore next to
Eva╒s; the Bel-Brit Bar, an English-style pub also
located on Burns Avenue; the Sandcastle, a popular
nightclub and restaurant next to the bus depot; and
to Cahal Pech Tavern, San Ignacio╒s liveliest dance
hall.  The Tavern is now part of Cahal Pech Village,
Cahal Pech Hill, (tel. [phone], is new name for
the formerly  separate Cahal Pech Hotel and Cahal
Pech Tavern. A beige wall separates the lodging from
the tavern with its huge thatched palapa roof. Views
from this vantage point high above San Ignacio are
impressive. This establishment is run by the same
folks who own the Venus Hotel.

Other Cayo District towns include Santa Elena, San
Ignacio╒s sister city across the suspension bridge,
and Benque Viejo, which practically straddles the
Guatemalan border. Both communities are largely
Spanish-speaking, and you are likely to encounter
marimbas, fiestas, and colorful social customs
centered around Catholic holidays and the rituals of
baptism, confirmation, and marriage. Many
inhabitants are descended from Guatemalan immigrants
who crossed the border into Belize to escape
political persecution and economic exploitation.
Until the late 1980s, the Western Highway was
unpaved beyond San Ignacio, and rural residents here
were very isolated. Many still make do without
electricity, telephones, and indoor plumbing.
Tucked into the folds of the lush green hills are a
dozen or more ╥cottage╙ resorts, ranging from rustic
to elegant but each catering to the visitor who
wants to get away from urban distractions in a
wooden bungalow or palm-thatched cabaû a. Some of
these charming retreats are located on working farms
or ranches, while others are exclusively dedicated
to a kind of gracious, low-key tropical tourism that
brings to mind images of the African veldt or Costa
Rican jungle.

Each lodge is slightly different in style and
character, with its own set of advantages and
disadvantages. Some specialize in horseback riding
or canoeing; others cater to forest trekkers and
bird-watchers. Still others can arrange strenuous
camping trips in the unexplored wilderness or
investigations of little-known caverns. All,
however, supply meals and other basic amenities to
their guests, and most can set up tours of the
nearby Mayan ruins at Xunantunich, Caracol, Cahal
Pech, and Tikal. A few even have reciprocal
agreements with resorts on the coast or cayes that
allow visitors to package a ╥surf and turf╙ holiday.
Rates and accommodations vary widely, from budget to
five-star, depending on such variables as location,
meals, services, and transportation costs.

[For reports on the Mountain Pine Ridge resorts
including Blancaneaux, Hidden Valley Inn, Five
Sisters, Pine Ridge Lodge, and on Caracol,  a Maya
site larger than Tikal, see past issues of BELIZE
FIRST, including Vol. II, Nos. 1, 3 and 4, and Vol.
III, No. 1.  BELIZE FIRST plans an update issue on
Caracol and the Pine Ridge later in 1996.]

Most Cayo resort operators take individual
preferences into account, making breakfast at 5 a.m.
for eager bird-watchers, for example, or eliminating
the meal entirely for late risers who wish to sleep
in. If you want to be chauffeured, they will pick
you up at the Belize City airport, San Ignacio bus
stop, or almost anyplace else. Charters can now be
made to the Cayo airport at Central Farm or
Blancaneaux strip in the Mountain Pine Ridge. If you
have your own transportation, operators will be just
as happy to give you detailed instructions and maps
to whatever destination pleases you.

Some of the more established cottage resorts with
good reputations among experienced travelers include
the Maya Mountain Lodge (encompassing a forest
preserve on the Cristo Rey road); Chaa Creek
Cottages (offering Mayan-style cabaû as and a
butterfly farm on a bluff above the Macal River);
Mountain Equestrian Trails (a 150-acre, 20-horse
ranch catering to nature lovers);  Nabitunich (a
cattle ranch near the Xunantunich ruins where you
can simply relax and watch the Mopan River flow by,
happily now again back in the hospitable hands of
the Juans); Windy Hill Cottages (yet another ranch,
this one with elegant rooms and swimming pool);
Banana Bank Ranch (operated by former Montana cowboy
John Carr and his artist wife Carolyn); Parrot╒s
Nest (a fascinating collection of tree- houses built
above the river near Bullet Tree Falls Village);
Crystal Paradise Resort (operated by a Mayan-Creole
family and offering bird-watching, horseback riding
and boat trips from Cristo Rey Village); Las Casitas
(a cluster of rustic bungalows at the confluence of
the Belize and Mopan rivers); and Ek╒Tun (a remote
but luxurious hideaway perched above the Macal
River).

Several of the Cayo resorts have become actively
involved in projects that combine conservation and
sustainable economic development. Mountain
Equestrian Trails, for example, has joined with
neighboring private landowners to establish the
3,500-acre Slate Creek Preserve, a limestone karst
area covered with moist broadleaf forest and home to
such endangered fauna as the keel-billed motmot and
Baird╒s tapir. The preserve is a vital link in
establishing a biological corridor between the RÆ o
Bravo wilderness, Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, and
Mountain Pine Ridge. Mountain Equestrian Trails
owners Jim and Marguerite Bevis are involving
residents of the nearby immigrant village of Siete
Millas in handicraft production, nature-oriented
tourism and environmentally sound farming as an
alternative to slash-and-burn agriculture, which
threatens the Slate Creek watershed and other tracts
of unspoiled wilderness. A Belizean of U.S. descent,
Jim Bevis hires well-informed local guides to lead
visitors on horseback to remote area caves,
waterfalls, and ruins. These highly recommended
trips are tailored to equestrians of all abilities,
including novices. Visitors may camp out or stay in
beautifully appointed bungalows at the ranch. Other
MET expeditions, conducted in association with The
Divide Ltd. (Neil Rogers), combine camping and
hiking to such unusual destinations as Puente
Natural and Las Cuevas, deep in the Chiquibul
forest. MET╒s Jim Bevis also co-leads a ╥Maya
Mountain Traverse╙ through virtually unexplored
wilderness as part of a trek offered by Ecosummer
Expeditions.

The operators of Maya Mountain Lodge, located about
one-half mile south of Santa Elena, also show
genuine concern for the future of Cayo and its
people. Owners Bart (vice president of the Belize
Ecotourism Association) and Suzi Mickler are
developing a ceramic handicraft industry using local
artisans, teachers, and materials. They began
holding ceramics classes in 1993 with the goal of
more evenly distributing the economic rewards of
tourism among all Belizeans. Thanks to their
efforts, many residents of nearby San JosÄ  Succotz
are now making and selling Mayan-style ceramic art
objects. Besides the usual sightseeing trips, Maya
Mountain offers guided horseback trips, canoe rides,
mountain biking, birding, Mennonite visits, and
nature treks (with accompanying guidebooks prepared
by biologist Bruce Miller and Suzi Mickler, who
holds a master of science degree in education). The
facility maintains an educational field station and
reference library for cultural, archaeological, and
wildlife studies. Maya Mountain is also one of the
few Belize lodges that encourages families to visit,
and provides a growing number of activities for
parents and their children. The lodge holds special
week-long workshops during the summer for various
interest groups, including artists, families
interested in ecology or multiculturalism, and
teachers studying tropical ecology or Mayan culture.
A former chicken ranch, Maya Mountain grows much of
its own food and has established a private nature
reserve that includes an unexcavated Mayan
ceremonial site. The lodge can arrange home-stays in
Gales Point, Bermudian Landing, and several other
Belizean villages.

A favorite of many travelers is Chaa Creek Cottages,
established many years ago by British expatriate
Mick Fleming and his American wife, Lucy. Guests
stay in Mayan-style cottages set beneath tall
tropical trees or camp out on a bluff above the
Macal River. Visitors are serenaded by exotic birds
every morning: there is no glass in the windows
because Chaa Creek, like much of Cayo, has almost no
biting insects. Several nature-oriented tour
operators regularly bring their tours here because
of the resort╒s high standards and commitment to
environmental awareness. In 1994, Chaa Creek started
a butterfly breeding farm, where visitors can see
such brilliant species as the ╥Belize Blue╙ that are
being raised for sale to indoor butterfly parks
around the world.

Lower-priced but highly recommended accommodations
catering to nature lovers include the Belizean-owned
Crystal Paradise Resort, which offers horseback
riding, nature treks, boat trips, bird-watching
(binoculars provided), and Mayan ruin tours from a
100-acre parcel along the Macal River near the
village of Cristo Rey. Members of the large and
friendly Victor Tut family go out of their way to
please guests and know the Cayo as only life-long
residents can. Check out their extensive natural
history library and impressive collection of
historic artifacts. The homegrown coffee and Creole
cooking by Teresa Tut is delicious. Pick-up by boat
or van can be arranged. Some of the more unusual
activities include star-gazing (with a powerful
telescope) and trips to Laguna Aguacate, a jungle
lake near a Mennonite settlement and Mayan ruins.
Located only a few hundreds yards from downtown San
Ignacio, moderately-priced Mida╒s Resort offers
thatched roof cabins on the banks of the Macal.
Operated by a British-Belizean couple, Mike and
Maria Preston, Mida╒s arranges canoeing,
sightseeing, and nature treks. (Canoes can also be
rented at the nearby Snooty Fox.) Inexpensive
camping and a full range of meals are offered at
Mida╒s. Further west, near Xunantunich, is a 400-
acre working ranch called Nabitunich (╥stone
cottage╙), with 11 cabins and lots of horses. Bridal
trails extend through miles of dense bush. On a
sharp bend in the Belize River,  near Bullet Tree
Falls, the Parrot╒s Nest accommodates visitors in
rustic tree houses. German-born owner Fred Prost
raises orchids commercially and is known to many
returning visitors as the former manager of Belize
City╒s Seaside Guest House. Here, as there, Prost
has kept his lodge affordable for backpackers.
Swimming and birding are excellent at Parrot╒s Nest;
horseback tours are also offered to the nearby Mayan
ruin of El Pilar and a jungle chicle camp.
Worthy of special mention is Ek╒Tun (╥black rock╙ in
Mayan), where American expatriates Ken and Phyllis
Dart have created a lovely two-cottage Macal River
retreat on their 200 acres of pristine jungle. One
of the most isolated lodges in the Cayo, it is worth
the extra effort (4-wheel-drive Land Rover and boat)
to get here. You╒ll feel like you╒re miles away from
civilization,  and indeed you are. Many guests have
commented on the ╥spiritual energy╙ they feel at
this place, which is built on the grounds of what
was once an ancient Mayan village. The Darts love to
pamper their guests with personal, customized
service, ranging from gourmet meals to canoe trips
down the Macal and guided tours of unexcavated
ruins. The beautiful Yucatç n Maya-style
accommodations are handcrafted and elegantly
appointed, with careful attention to detail. Outside
your door is the cathedral-like majesty of a high-
canopy tropical forest, with the soothing sound of
the river constantly in the background. Ek╒Tun is
heaven for bird-watchers, with more than 120 species
observable in a random week. Sightings include the
spectacled owl and orange-breasted falcon, along
with jaguar, howler monkeys, tapirs, tayras,
peccaries, and brocket deer. Mayan artifacts have
been found in nearby caves, and there are many house
mounds, causeways, and even an ancient well.
Committed environmentalists, the Darts spend part of
their time growing mahogany, teak, and other highly
valued trees that have become scarce through
exploitation.

There are at least two dozen other lodges,
campgrounds, and hotels in the Cayo to suit every
taste and pocketbook. Check with travel agencies,
the Belize Tourism Industry Association, or the
Belize Tourist Board for a complete rundown. Bob
Jones at Eva╒s Restaurant is also an excellent
source of up-to-date information and he can help
budget-minded travelers find the best values. For
those heading off the beaten path, we recommend The
Divide Ltd. (501-9-23452). For those who wish to
stay in town, one can╒t do better than the Belizean-
owned San Ignacio Hotel, which has a very good
restaurant (specializing in beef), comfortable rooms
(some with satellite TV and direct-dial phones), a
nature trail, gift shop, basketball court, and the
best swimming pool in Cayo. There are budget-priced
accommodations in San Ignacio as well, however we
have received inconsistent reports about most of
them. For those who wish to stay in a jungle setting
close to Belmopan, we recommend Banana Bank Lodge,
operated by American cattle rancher John Carr and
his artists wife, Carolyn. Much of their 4,000-acre
property is old-growth subtropical forest, with over
200 species of birds identified along with many
other creatures. The lodge specializes in canoeing
(up to 3 hours on the Belize River), horseback
riding (select from among 25 saddle horses), and
star-gazing (with an 8-inch Meade telescope). Meals
are provided.

There is a wide range of restaurants in the Cayo
District, yielding something for every pocketbook
and taste. In addition to the above-mentioned
lodges, most of which serve excellent food, we like
San Ignacio╒s Serendib (on Burns Ave., for authentic
Sri Lankan curries) and the Sandcastle Bar & Grill
(at the Manza Plaza downtown, for fine seafood and
Belizean cuisine, plus the friendliest atmosphere in
town). Like Bob Jones at Eva╒s, Remo Montgomery of
the Sandcastle is a gold mine of travel information
and even does river trips on area waterways.
If You Go: The Cayo District is easily reached by
private or rental car on the Western Highway, or by
the same route via the low-cost Batty, Novelo,
Piache, and Shaw bus lines. Check with local agents
or innkeepers for schedules and fares. The drive
from Belize City to San Ignacio takes just under two
hours, the bus somewhat longer. There is a taxi
stand at Columbus Park (the traffic circle by the
suspension bridge) in San Ignacio and Market Plaza
in downtown Belmopan. Small airstrips near Belmopan,
Central Farm (east of San Ignacio), and the
Blancaneaux Lodge (in the Mountain Pine Ridge) are
used by private and chartered aircraft. Most resorts
can arrange pick-up at Belize╒s international
airport for a fee of about US$100.

Ix Chel Farm and Rainforest Medicine Trail
A few miles west of San Ignacio, a dirt side road
follows a Macal River tributary called Chaa Creek,
which has become one of the centers of laid-back
Cayo tourism. The Chaa Creek Road first winds
through a series of barren cattle pastures before
bisecting verdant farmland: vast Mennonite
plantations on one side, small Indian fields on the
other. About 4 miles from the Western Highway the
road splits, with one branch heading toward
DuPlooy╒s Resort and the other to Chaa Creek
Cottages, both recommended for those seeking an
authentic jungle experience with plenty of creature
comforts.

Both lodges perch on cliffs above the swift Macal
River and are surrounded by thick second-growth
subtropical vegetation. The forest setting is
tranquil and shady, a perfect setting for a slow
canoe trip, unhurried horseback ride, or leisurely
nature walk. A maze of pathways penetrate the
foliage, including the remarkable Rainforest
Medicine Trail. This unusual trail is located about
100 yards away from Chaa Creek Cottages on the
grounds of Ix Chel Farm, a pioneering research
facility specializing in the healing properties of
plants.

During the summer rainy season, when visitors from
other parts of Belize complain about bug bites, Ix
Chel founder Rosita Arvigo walks out the back door
of her farmhouse and snaps a small branch off a red
gumbo-limbo tree. The bark, she informs them,
produces a natural insect repellent. It can also be
made into a tonic for treating urinary tract
infections and provides an antidote to the itchy
rashes caused by contact with the poisonwood tree,
which invariably grows nearby. There are many other
local trees, shrubs, and vines that have proven
equally useful.

A dedicated herbalist and botanical field
practitioner from Chicago, Arvigo is in a race
against time. She and her colleagues at this remote
encampment are scouring the Central American forests
in search of tropical plants that may help win the
war against a number of deadly diseases. With her
husband, Greg Shropshire, Arvigo works at the place
where the timeless wisdom of venerable native
healers intersects with the untested theories of
Western medicine.

╥Much of what I have learned is from Don Elijio
Panti,╙ she explains, referring to the traditional
Mayan healer who began╤albeit reluctantly at first╤
sharing his secrets (beginning at age 86) with
Arvigo. This local Mayan herbalist, who died
February 4, 1996,  at age 103, has provided Arvigo╒s
Ix Chel Tropical Research Center with vital
information about hundreds of plants that have been
used by Belizeans to treat everything from heart
attacks to snakebites.

For students of the natural pharmacy held in
undisturbed tropical forest or those who are
interested in modern examples of the bridge between
cultures, we recommend Arvigo╒s compelling 1994
book, Sastun, My Apprenticeship with a Maya Healer.
Arvigo has recently accomplished one important goal:
to preserve the encyclopedic herbal lore Don Elijio
memorized during his long lifetime. Major progress
has also been made in determining the healing
properties of hundreds of other native plants that
may have never been ingested by humans and thus have
unknown biochemical effects.

╥In 1987 the U.S. government╒s National Cancer
Institute awarded a contract to the New York
Botanical Garden╒s Institute of Economic Botany to
survey the flowering and cone bearing plants in the
New World tropics for chemical compounds that could
be used to treat diseases such as cancer and AIDS,╙
explained Dr. Michael Balick, a director at the
Institute of Economic Botany, in a 1995 interview.
╥Ix Chel Tropical Research Foundation is the
collaborating center for this work in Belize.╙ Drs.
Balick, Arvigo and Shropshire have╤in collaboration
with numerous Belizean traditional healers╤collected
hundreds of plants in support of the project. The
effort underscores a deepening alliance between
native healers and modern scientists in a bid to
study potentially useful plants before they are
wiped off the face of the earth by deforestation and
industrialization.

The World Health Organization, among other
international agencies, have studied plant samples
from Ix Chel Farm. The materials are dried in a
specially made oven in Arvigo╒s botanical workshop,
then labeled and packaged before being sent to a
laboratory for analysis. All this work is carried
out in an isolated setting that has only solar
electricity, minimal hot water, and no telephone.
The campaign is spurred by the knowledge that the
world╒s forests have already yielded such medicines
as quinine (an antimalarial), vinblastine (used to
treat Hodgkin╒s disease), and taxol (a treatment for
ovarian cancer). Many so-called miracle drugs are
plant-derived compounds from tropical forests.
Examples include Tubocurarine (curare), used in
operating rooms to relax muscles and prevent spasm,
and Pilocarpine, used in ophthalmology for the
treatment of glaucoma. Scientists estimate that 25
percent of all prescription drugs were derived from
the plant kingdom.

At Ix Chel Farm, the Rainforest Medicine Trail winds
through a living display of arboreal and herbal
remedies. Signs describe one plant after another,
many bearing unusually descriptive names. The ╥tres
puntas╙ plant╤distinguished by its large three-
pointed leaves and also know as jackass bitters╤is
used to treat and prevent a variety of parasitic
ailments such as malaria, fungus and ringworm. A few
steps farther is skunk root, effective in treating
alcoholism and ulcers, and wild grapevine, filled
with an antiseptic used to wash newborn infants.
Nearby grows the fiddlewood tree; its bark used in
an herbal bath to kill the parasite known to cause a
painful condition called leishmaniasis. Also present
is the wild yam, a popular Belizean household remedy
for urinary tract ailments and to relieve pains of
rheumatism and arthritis.

As practiced by Panti and other Mayan shaman, herbal
medicine is religious as well as physical. Natural
and supernatural forces are seen in every aspect of
daily life. Traditionally, a Mayan healer was called
a h╒men, or doctor/priest. Every one of his patients
receives a series of nine prayers to the nine
principal Mayan spirits. Before Panti would cut any
plant with his machete, he always paused to murmur a
prayer: ╥In the name of God, I take the life of this
plant to heal the sick and I give thanks to its
spirit.╙

Much of the information that Panti has passed on to
Arvigo in tape-recorded meetings and early morning
field trips is also being fed into a computer, to be
shared with scientists and medical researchers
around the globe. Arvigo and Michael Balick of the
New York Botanical Garden have written a book,
published by Lotus Press, about their findings:
Rainforest Remedies:One Hundred Healing Herbs of
Belize.

 ╥We╒re teaching health care workers in village
clinics how to use medicinal plants,╙ says Arvigo,
who welcomes between 3,000 to 5,000 visitors a year
to Ix Chel Farm and sees patients privately for
specialized forms of acupuncture, chiropractics, and
other health treatments. Her husband is a
homeopathic doctor with his own practice as well.

The facilities at Ix Chel Farm have been expanded to
accommodate conferences where Arvigo and Shropshire,
residents of Belize since 1983, share their
knowledge of natural healing practices. The couple
sell a variety of teas and ointments directly to the
public (mail orders carry a 15 percent surcharge).
They also use an adjacent property to do studies on
the economic value of rain forest plants, focusing
on the sustainable harvest of various species. In
1993, the couple worked with the Belize Association
of Traditional Healers in spearheading a campaign to
protect yet another tract of old-growth forest in
western Belize for the specific purpose of growing
and harvesting medicinal plants (believed to be the
first of its kind in the world). The resulting
6,000-acre nature reserve, Terra Nova, is not
currently accessible to tourists.

If You Go: Open during daylight hours every day but
Monday, the Rainforest Medicine Trail and Ix Chel
Farm are located at the end of Chaa Creek Road, next
to Chaa Creek Cottages. The site can be reached by
car (4-wheel drive recommended during wet season) or
taxi. Turn south off the Western Highway about 6
miles west of San Ignacio (watch for Chaa Creek
signs). An alternative is to take a boat 5 miles
upstream from the Hawkesworth Bridge and put in at
the Chaa Creek Cottages dock. Call Eva╒s Restaurant
in San Ignacio (tel. [phone]) for more
information, or write Ix Chel Farm, General
Delivery, San Ignacio. The Ix Chel fax is 501-9-
23870.

A self-guided tour of the mile-long Medicine Trail
is US$5 per person, including an explanatory
booklet. Fresh fruit and spearmint tea are available
on request. A guided one-hour tour and lecture by an
Ix Chel staffer is US$30, if arranged in advance.
There is an additional charge for meals and canoe
trips.

Ix Chel Farm sells many herbal elixirs and potions,
with names like Belly Be Good and Female Tonic.
Prices are around US$10. Some of these items are
also available in gift shops and groceries in other
parts of the country; look for the Rainforest
Remedies label, which is also marketed in the United
States. Ten percent of all sales goes to traditional
healers and educational programs in Belize.
Arvigo and Shropshire welcome tax-deductible
donations to support their research, either sent
directly to Ix Chel Farm or in care of Michael J.
Balick, Director of the Institute of Economic
Botany, New York Botanical Garden, Bronx, NY 10458.
Checks sent to the latter address should be made to
the New York Botanical Garden with an accompanying
letter specifying use by the Belize Ethnobotany
Project.

San Antonio Village

The more westerly of the two routes leading into the
Mountain Pine Ridge╤the Cristo Rey Road╤passes
through the small and mostly Maya Indian farming
village of San Antonio. This is one of the few
remaining communities in Belize where the Mopan
dialect is spoken. (Note that there is a second San
Antonio, populated by KekchÆ -speaking Maya, in the
Toledo District near Punta Gorda.)
The Cayo╒s San Antonio village is situated in a
picturesque valley where terraced fields of beans
and corn have been carved out of the leafy jungle.
Agriculture has persisted here for thousands of
years. Recently, a few small shops, restaurants, and
museums have been opened in an attempt to diversify
the local economy.

Among the several attractions that are worth
visiting in the San Antonio area are the GarcÆ a
Sisters Museum, the Itzamna╒ (Magaû a Family)
Gallery and Gift Shop, and the Pacbitun
archaeological site. For those wishing to spend some
time here, the Blue Ridge Lodge provides basic
cabins and meals. Horseback riding, cave trips, and
tours of Pacbitun can also be arranged at Blue
Ridge, located on the road to Pacbitun.

Pacbitun (meaning ╥stones set in the earth╙) is one
of the oldest middle Pre-Classic Mayan ruins in the
country, first occupied in 1000 B.C. and abandoned
around A.D. 900. The location was known for many
years by local residents but not registered by the
Belize Department of Archaeology until 1971.
Canada╒s Trent University excavated and partially
reconstructed this ceremonial site during the 1980s.
Findings include a number of Mayan altar stones and
ball courts as well as ancient musical instruments
such as ocarinas fashioned out of carved and molded
pottery. There are at least 24 temple pyramids at
Pacbitun, the largest standing 60 feet tall. Two
thousand years ago this apparently was a wealthy
trading center with fancy homes, elevated walkways,
a ball court, and raised irrigation causeways up to
a half-mile long.

The Pacbitun site is on private farmland, but the
owner, Fidencio Tzul, welcomes visitors for a $1
fee. His family home is at the well-marked turnoff
to Pacbitun one-half mile east of San Antonio. The
ruins are about 3 miles farther down the side road.
Mr. Tzul will be happy to give you a tour and answer
any questions. There have been persistent rumors
that the Belize government will some day purchase
the Pacbitun site and relocate the Tzul family, so
access may be easier by the time you read this.
Immediately north of San Antonio on the main road to
Cristo Rey and Santa Elena is the GarcÆ a Sisters
Museum╤a combination crafts shop, herbal medicine
pharmacy, and Mayan shrine. The five GarcÆ a
sisters, at least one of whom is always on hand,
make and sell black slate carvings that depict Maya-
related masks, gods, and historic figures. Although
this art form has been practiced by the modern Maya
for years in neighboring Guatemala, only since the
1980s has this tradition been revived in Belize. At
one end of the museum building is a round structure
built in the shape of a traditional Mayan hut, where
explanations of the various masks and symbols seen
in the carvings can be found. There are also some
large pieces of carved slate that emulate the sacred
altar stones of ancient times. Be advised that there
is a US$5 admission charge to the museum and that
the GarcÆ a sisters are aggressive, though charming,
salespersons.

Another group of local artisans, the Magaû a family,
also operates an art gallery and gift shop that
sells carvings of wood and stone. The Magaû as
produce wood and limestone carvings that incorporate
traditional Mayan themes. Glyphs from the Mayan
calender are also hand-painted by family members on
the same type of cloth supposedly used by ancient
royalty. The Magaû a enterprise is a few miles north
of San Antonio on the Cristo Rey Road.

Augustine Village and Beyond

The headquarters for the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest
Reserve is in a large wooden building in the
settlement of Augustine, renamed Douglas DiSilva in
1990 after a politician╒s grandfather (who happened
to be the area╒s first forest ranger). Only about
100 people╤all forestry employees╤live here, and the
place has the look and feel of a run-down summer
camp. Many of the houses are in disrepair, and
others are being used to store pine seeds for
reforestation projects. Worth visiting are the self-
guided nature trail on the headquarters grounds and
the small store (source of the only supplies for
many miles around). Thatch-shaded tables are
available to picnickers, but there is no restaurant
or gas station. Inquire at the headquarters about
camping and overnight rental of government-owned
guest houses. When the surface is dry, you can reach
Caracol from here in about 45 minutes. Heading in
the other direction, Georgeville and San Ignacio on
the Western Highway are between 90 minutes and 2
hours away.

Vaca Falls and Che Chem Ha Cave

The upper stretches of the Macal River extend into a
remote and seldom seen area that drains the Vaca
Plateau watershed and much of Chiquibul National
Park. Access has improved in recent years through
grading of a new road used in the construction of a
recently controversial Taiwanese-funded dam and
hydroelectric plant,  in the upper Macal basin above
the confluence of the Mollejon River.

A highly recommended destination is the privately
owned Che Chem Ha Cave (sometimes called Vaca Cave),
located near Vaca Falls, a scenic and rocky plunge
on the Macal River. This location can be reached by
a one-hour boat trip from San Ignacio or a two-hour
hike from the hydroelectric project road. The
Antonio Morales family provides bungalow-style
accommodations and delicious meals as well as guided
tours of Che Chem Ha, which means ╥poison vine
water.╙ This extensive and important Mayan
ceremonial cave, discovered in the early 1990s by
William Morales, is well worth seeing. It contains
many pristine artifacts, including ancient pottery
vessels, paintings, incense burners, and a circle of
special carved stones where animal sacrifices were
made and prayers to underworld gods were spoken.
These items have been left undisturbed for at least
1,200 years, and iron grates now protect them from
looters and vandals. The interior of these caves is
dark, wet, and slippery: one should wear grip-tread
shoes and bring a flashlight or diving light. Some
fairly strenuous climbing is involved but the effort
is well worth it.

The Morales compound may be reached by local VHF
radio (try Bob Jones at Eva╒s Restaurant in San
Ignacio) or through Chaa Creek Cottages, which
arranges tours. Visitors are asked not to enter Che
Chem Ha Cave without a member of the Morales family.
This is not only for safety reasons, but to protect
the integrity of the cave╒s fragile artifacts, which
have been left in situ: exactly where they were
placed many centuries ago. The visit lasts about 90
minutes and costs about US$10, with a minimum of 3
persons on each tour. If you arrive in the late
morning and place your order, the Moraleses will
have lunch ready when you finish your cave tour and
make the 30-minute hike back to the compound. Meals
are about US$6 and overnight accommodations are
about US$80 (double occupancy, including three meals
a day).

From the Morales home one can hike to Vaca Falls in
about an hour, then proceed onward to the previously
described Ek╒Tun resort, located a few miles
downstream from the waterfall. (Guacamallo Ruins
Campground lies a few miles in the other direction.)
The two lodges have a reciprocal agreement for those
who wish to overnight in both places. Horses can be
obtained at either location for rides into the
jungle. Trails lead from here as far as San Antonio
and Caracol. Note that the road to Che Chem Ha can
be treacherous when wet; it╒s not unusual for cars
to get stuck in the last 100 yards of steep road,
just below the Morales residence. The turn-off to
Che Chem Ha is six miles south on the Negroman Falls
Road from Benque Viejo. Watch for the signs.
A few miles upstream from Ek╒Tun is the Guacamallo
Ruins Campground, which rents tent sites and rustic
tree houses in a riverbank setting. There are many
unexcavated ruins in this area as well as dense
subtropical forests now maintained as a private
nature reserve. In the same area is the Black Rock
Resort, operated by the owner of Cesar╒s Place, a
combination hotel, gift shop, and restaurant on the
Western Highway east of San Ignacio.

Chiquibul National Park

Rather than loop through the Mountain Pine Ridge in
only a day or two, some travelers continue south
beyond the RÆ o FrÆ o Cave into some of the wildest
areas of Belize. Only a handful of people live full-
time in this area, mostly chicle tappers, illegal
Guatemalan immigrants, poachers, and looters. In
late 1991, the Government of Belize established more
than 200,000 acres of this former forest reserve as
a national park, currently Belize╒s single largest
protected area.

An enclave inside the Chiquibul National Park is the
enormous Mayan ruin of Caracol, currently being
excavated, located about 30 miles southwest of
Augustine. Caracol is protected under a separate
designation because of its archaeological
significance. Chiquibul╒s broad tableland consists
of hundreds of square miles of intact forest, the
last stronghold of many wildlife and plant species
that are endangered elsewhere in Central America and
southern Mexico. The plateau is crisscrossed by old
logging and chiclero trails, but over the years,
many have been reclaimed by the jungle. A detailed
map may suggest that there are a number of villages
in the area, but in reality these are abandoned
lumbering camps established long ago when mahogany
and other hardwoods were being selectively harvested
and skidded, then floated, down river to Belize
City. Travel in this area is now limited to
horseback and high-clearance, four-wheel-drive
vehicles. Overnight trips can be arranged through
local operators to such spectacular destinations as
Puente Natural, a high-arch cave similar to RÆ o FrÆ
o through which a small river flows. Highly
recommended for such rugged adventures is Mountain
Equestrian Trails; contact Neil Rogers or Jim Bevis
there for details.

Several other local tour operators, notably Chaa
Creek Cottages and Maya Mountain Lodge, also run
overnight or daylong mule/horse trips into this
area. Destinations include remote Mayan ruins,
caves, waterfalls, rivers, and chiclero camps.
Because of the rough terrain and the absence of
freshwater streams during the dry season, overland
trips to the area are recommended only for travelers
who are healthy and adventurous. The scenery,
however, is some of the finest in Central America.

Blue Hole and Five Blues Lake National Parks, St.
Herman╒s and Other Caves

For experienced spelunkers╤the technical term for
cave explorers╤Belize can be a dream come true.
Underlying most of the country (with the notable
exception of the Maya Mountains) are the kinds of
limestone platforms and uplifts that almost
guarantee the formation of extensive cavern
networks. Unlike the western rim of the Americas,
which is part of the so-called Ring of Fire circling
the Pacific Ocean, there is virtually no volcanic
activity in Belize. The nation╒s only known hot
springs, for example, is a small pool in the Toledo
District.

Because of their isolation, many Belizean caves have
not been fully explored, and it is likely that many
entrances have not even been discovered. The
Chiquibul complex of the Vaca Plateau, for example,
is perhaps one of the largest underground labyrinths
in Central America. No one knows for certain, since
many branches have yet to be explored by modern man.
In fact, no systematic scientific exploration
occurred until the late 1970s. Since then, in some
of the Vaca Plateau (Chiquibul) caves, researchers
have found fossilized insects and crustaceans that
have been extinct for many centuries. Many of the
caves show signs of ceremonial usage by the ancient
Maya, who considered such places to be sacred
passages to the underworld. Their pots and other
artifacts are often found in dusty yet pristine
condition.

According to Logan McNatt, a former Department of
Archaeology employee who has spent many years
exploring the caves of Belize, most of these sites
are and should remain closed to the general public.
╥There are three main problems,╙ McNatt told us.
╥First, most of the caves are important
archaeological sites that have not yet been
evaluated or protected. Second, many cave systems of
Belize are subject to sudden, unexpected flooding
that can make them very dangerous. Finally, few maps
of the inner passageways exist.╙

McNatt points out that many of the caves are
actually part of underground river courses that form
a massive aquifer beneath Belize. A caver may
descend under a clear blue sky, only to find a rapid
surge in water elevation caused by a far-off
thunderstorm. For these reasons, only experienced
and well-equipped persons should attempt to explore
the wilder, lesser-known caves of Belize.
Knowledgeable and experienced guides should also be
engaged for every journey, except for such small and
well-traveled caves as RÆ o FrÆ o, St. Herman╒s, and
Ben Lomond. These latter caves have an eerie kind of
beauty, punctuated as they often are by occasional
streams of light from ceiling cracks and side
entrances. Some of the underground chambers are a
hundred or more feet high, adorned with majestic
stalactites and stalagmites. They provide an unusual
habitat favored by bats, sightless fish, spiders,
and other small creatures.

A well-marked sign guides visitors to the entrance
trail of Blue Hole National Park, a federally
protected area administered by the Belize Audubon
Society and located 12 miles southeast of Belmopan
on the Hummingbird Highway. (This Blue Hole is not
to be confused with the offshore destination of the
same name located near Half Moon Caye.)  Although
one of the smallest protected areas managed by
Belize Audubon, Blue Hole National Park receives
thousands visitors each year, as does the comparably
small Guanacaste National Park, located at the
intersection of the Western and Hummingbird Highways
near Belmopan.

In late 1993, Belize Audubon improved Blue Hole
National Park by completing a first-ever management
plan for the area. Another promising development for
Blue Hole was initiated in late 1994 through an
agreement involving the California-based Christian
Environmental Association, Belize Audubon, and
Caribbean Investment Limited. The Association is
purchasing 4,000 acres of adjacent tropical forest
adjacent to be overseen in accordance to guidelines
established by the Blue Hole management plan.
The centerpiece of the park is an amazing sight: a
deep pool of churning sapphire-colored water formed
by the collapse of an underground river channel. The
Caves Branch Creek tributary wells up from an unseen
source and travels for about 100 yards before
plunging mysteriously down a siphon that carries it
into yet another cave beneath the mountain. The
dome-shaped chamber where the water is sucked
underground creates an unusual echo chamber effect
as liquid swirls beneath it. This idyllic setting is
a good spot for swimming, picnicking, and bird-
watching. There are no overnight camping facilities.
The sparkling pool is about 25 feet deep and fast
moving, so bathers should be careful. Some
foreigners swim nude here, although this practice
offends many Belizeans, a large percentage of whom
are deeply religious.

 The same Caves Branch Creek travels through nearby
St. Herman╒s Cave and Mountain Cow Cave, which are
accessible from the Blue Hole via a well-maintained
forest pathway called the Nature Trail. Fauna
recorded in this area include jaguar, ocelot,
jaguarundi, tapir, peccary, anteater, gibnut,
coatimundi, deer, and kinkajou. Once you arrive at
the cave, a flashlight is handy in exploration,
along with a good pair of waterproof boots such as
Wellingtons. A smaller cave in the area not
connected to St. Herman╒s or Mountain Cow is
Petroglyph Cave, named after the ancient rock
drawings left inside it by Indians many centuries
ago. Permission from the Department of Archaeology
must be obtained to enter either Mountain Cow or
Petroglyph Cave, which are beyond the borders of
Blue Hole National Park. The park itself is open
from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Be advised that
numerous car break-ins have been reported at the
Blue Hole parking area; there is now a park warden
on duty at most times at a small sign-in station --
take extra precautions if the warden is not in the
vicinity.

The hike to St. Herman╒s Cave from the Blue Hole is
about 1.5 miles and takes about 45 minutes. An
alternative route involves driving one mile north
along the Hummingbird Highway, where it is possible
to join the Nature Trail only 10 minutes from the
cave╒s entrance. Look for the Blue Hole National
Park sign next to a citrus orchard at about Mile 11
on the Hummingbird Highway. The trail to St.
Herman╒s begins immediately behind the sign and
curves to the right along a dirt road next to the
citrus plantation.

St. Herman╒s was used by the Maya during the Classic
period, A.D. 100 to 900. The concrete steps leading
into its mouth are laid over stone steps carved over
a thousand years ago. Ancient pots used to collect
╥virgin water╙ from cave drippings, along with
spears and torches, have been removed by
archaeologists for study.

For those with a special interest in caves, we
recommend a visit to Caves Branch Jungle River Camp,
which offers camping, bunkhouses, and private cabaû
as on a 55,000-acre estate a few miles from Blue
Hole National Park (14 miles south of Belmopan on
the Hummingbird Highway). Ian Anderson uses the
camp, owned by Caribbean Investments Ltd., as a base
for daily adventure tours. The specialty of
Anderson╒s Adventure Tours Belize is guided ╥tubing╙
through three flooded caves in the area. This
involves floating gently along the slow-moving
underground rivers on the inflated inner-tube of a
truck tire. There are miles of floatable passageways
where visitors can spend hours looking at pristine
Mayan artifacts and magnificent natural formations,
including a ╥crystal room╙ where stalagmites sparkle
like diamonds as they rise up from below a river╒s
surface. For the more adventurous traveler, Anderson
leads expeditions that last up to six days and
include treks through dense jungle. Horseback
riding, bird-watching, wildlife searches (both day
and night), swimming, and guided nature walks are
other options available at Caves Branch Jungle River
Camp. Accommodations are rustic and prices moderate;
they include meals cooked by local Belizeans over an
open hearth.

Besides caves and underground rivers, attractions in
the area include a majestic hardwood forest that is
full of ferns, orchids, bromeliads, vines, and
shrubs, as well as an impressive number of birds (at
least 100 species have been confirmed here) and
spider monkeys. If you are traveling the Hummingbird
Highway by private vehicle, food and drinks are
available at the Oasis Bar and Restaurant, located
at about the half-way mark, next to a Texaco gas
station.

Down the road from the Oasis is St. Margaret╒s
Village, located near the crest of ridge on the
Belize and Stann Creek District borders. A small
sign marks the turnoff (Mile 32 of the Hummingbird
Highway) onto the unpaved road heading north several
miles to Five Blues Lake National Park. The park╒s
crown jewel is a small, 200-foot-deep lake
surrounded by steep limestone hills. It is called
Five Blues because of the various shades of blue
reflected by the sky during the course of a typical
day.

Five Blues Lake National Park is a remarkable
testament to the conservation success story in
Belize and it represents a growing trend in the
country for local involvement in the management of
protected areas by residents of nearby villages.
Largely through the efforts of the grassroots
community group, the Association of Friends of Five
Blues, the original 885-acre park has been expanded
to include some 4,200 acres of pristine tropical
forest and an extensive limestone cave complex.
 The Friends of Five Blues, with support from the
Natural Resource Management and Protection Project,
have built a small visitors╒ center from which a
park warden guides visitors on two main trails that
winds through the jungle to an interesting cave.
Near the visitors╒ center, accessible by an unpaved
road, is Five Blues Lake itself. One can enjoy a
picnic lunch, take a swim, or arrange for a serene
boat ride across the water. With your guide, we also
recommend a short trek past the lake into a
ceremonial Mayan cave complex located within the
protected area. The ancient Maya also used the deep
pools of the lake as sacrificial wells.

One main goal of the Friends of Five Blues is to
establish enduring local participation in nature-
oriented tourism so that residents of nearby St.
Margaret╒s Village will see some economic benefits
of protecting the park. The Friends group is also
working to expand the park and create protected
corridors linking Five Blues with the nearby Sibun
watershed and Manatee Forest Reserve. This network
could address simultaneously the need to protect
biological diversity and wildlife movement through
undisturbed lands. This protection must come quickly
in light of citrus encroachment and other
development in the region.

Before you go to St. Margaret╒s Village and Five
Blues Lake National Park, we suggest you contact the
Friends of Five Blues at Box 111, Belmopan, or
telephone [phone]. Park visitors are offered
camping, hiking, caving, birding, overnight guided
jungle trips, and Spanish language classes. There
are several rustic overnight options in the Five
Blues area: Palacio╒s Resort, Tamandua (a private
170-acre wildlife sanctuary and fruit farm, close to
monkey troops and a ╥hurricane shelter╙ cave), and
the Five Blues Bed & Breakfast Association (a
Hopkins-style cooperative of 20 local women, each of
whom maintain guest rooms in their homes and prepare
meals for visitors).

Another fairly large cave that is open to the public
but not as accessible as St. Herman╒s is Ben Lomond
Cave, located in the limestone hills fringing
Southern Lagoon, about 25 miles southwest of Belize
City and not far from Five Blues Lake National Park.
An excellent choice for a beginner, Ben Lomond is
full of Mayan artifacts and its surroundings offer a
perfect example of habitat transition from savanna
to tropical forest. It can be reached only by taking
a boat to the lagoon and then hiking through dense
coastal bush. A stream flows from the cavern╒s wide
mouth. We recommend hiring a local guide in Gales
Point or Dangriga for the trip. Bardy Riverol of
Jal╒s Travel in Belize City offers excellent tours
to destinations in this area, including Ben Lomond
Cave, as does the Pelican Beach Resort in Dangriga.
The seldom seen Manatee River Caves, located in the
same limestone karst area, are considered dangerous
and should only be explored by serious cavers. At
least one of these rugged caves, which vary in
length from a few hundred yards to perhaps a mile or
more, can be entered only by boat and is full of
unstable log jams.

Belmopan

The capital city of Belize has yet to find its way
onto the itinerary of most foreign visitors. This is
not surprising, considering the community╒s meager
attractions. Looking more like a second-rate college
campus than a national seat of government,
Belmopan╒s concrete and stucco buildings are spread
over a wide expanse of weedy lawns and empty lots.
The main complex is clustered around a central plaza
that features a lively market, several unremarkable
restaurants, and a noisy bus depot.

The architecture and layout are designed to evoke a
Mayan feeling: the name Belmopan combines the ╥Bel╙
of Belize with the name of one of the country╒s
indigenous tribes, the Mopan Maya. Despite warnings
that another big hurricane could level Belize City,
as Hattie did in 1961, only about 6,000 Belizeans
have heeded the call to relocate here.

The main attraction for travelers in Belmopan is the
Archaeology Vault of the Department of Archaeology.
While the vast majority of Belize╒s Mayan treasures
have been hauled off to foreign museums and private
collections, enough fine pieces remain to make a
stop here worthwhile. Department staffers take
reservations for tours (two days notice required) at
501-8-22106. The vault╤which is exactly that╤is open
from 1:30 to 4 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and
Fridays.

In early 1995, the Belize government commenced
construction of a long-awaited national museum in
Belmopan that will eventually house the Archaeology
Vault collection, as well as many other historic and
cultural artifacts. Projected to cost at least $3.5
million, the facility is expected to open in late
1996.

If You Go: Belmopan is located a short distance
south of the intersection of the Western and
Hummingbird highways, about 40 miles in either
direction from San Ignacio and Belize City. There is
frequent, inexpensive bus service to Belmopan from
Belize City, San Ignacio, and Dangriga. Buses run
about once every hour between these communities from
8 a.m. to 5 p.m., less often on weekends and
holidays.

Services in Belmopan include a bank, a post office,
and several hotels and restaurants. Because most
visitors are on expense accounts, most
accommodations are pricey, although the Bull Frog
Inn and Circle ╥A╙ Lodge, both on Halfmoon Ave., are
more moderate. Be advised that the Bull Frog bar can
be very noise until the wee hours of the morning.
The best budget hotel (and cafÄ ) is the El Rey Inn,
located on Moho Street in a residential area. Free
overnight parking is available to recreational
vehicles at The Oasis, near Guanacaste park, which
also has an inexpensive restaurant, restrooms, and a
water tap.

Belmopan╒s restaurants are characterized by their
overpriced, undistinguished food and slow service.
The best establishments are Yoli╒s Lounge (Belizean,
Mexican, Italian and American food) and the Bull
Frog Inn, although the Chinese restaurants serve
cheap, acceptable meals, as they do throughout
Belize. An important exception is Little Dragon,
near the Hummingbird Highway, where several
travelers have reported intestinal distress.

Guanacaste National Park

On Earth Day (April 22), 1990, the Belizean
government officially created 50-acre Guanacaste
National Park in a lush parcel of forest alongside
the Belize River. Located less than 2 miles from
Belmopan, at the intersection of the Hummingbird and
Western highways, the park is named after a huge
guanacaste tree growing near the reserve╒s
southwestern boundary. Also known as the tubroos or
monkey╒s ear tree, the guanacaste is a highly prized
hardwood known for its resistance to insects and
decay. Guanacaste lumber is the material of choice
for construction of dugout canoes, feeding troughs,
and rice-hulling mortars. Cattle and monkeys love to
nibble on guanacaste fruit, which appear as a shiny
brown pod during the dry season after an explosion
of small white flowers.

This particular giant (the species is one of the
largest in Central America) towers more than 120
feet above the forest floor and was only spared the
woodcutter╒s ax because naturally occurring splits
in its massive trunk make it unusable as timber (all
other guanacaste trees in the park have been
harvested). The tree╒s broad, sky-seeking branches
support hundreds of epiphytes, including many
brilliant species of orchid and bromeliad.
A short trail leads through the forest to the
guanacaste tree from a visitors╒ center operated by
the Belize Audubon Society. Known as the Guanacaste
Education Center, this facility was dedicated to the
U.S. Peace Corps as Audubon╒s way of honor the
Corps╒ many contributions to conservation and
education in Belize.

Other large trees seen along the trail to the
Guanacaste tree include the mammee apple, bookut,
ramon, quamwood, silk cotton, and raintree. Several
mahogany trees have been planted near the park╒s
visitor center as part of a reforestation program.
One can hike a self-guided interpretive loop trail
and view a display of native orchids at the
visitors╒ center.

Despite Guanacaste╒s diminutive size, it harbors
abundant wildlife. Species observed here include
jaguarundi, kinkajou, paca, armadillo, iguana, deer,
and opossum. Resident birds include the blue-crowned
motmot, black-faced ant thrush, smoky-brown
woodpecker, red-lored parrot, black-headed trogon,
and squirrel cuckoo, among more than 50 confirmed
species.

Guanacaste National Park is easily accessible by
bus, taxi, private car, or package tour. Restrooms,
drinking water, and picnic facilities are available.
Cooking and camping are not permitted, however.
There is a well-maintained trail network throughout
the park, which follows a graceful curve of the
Belize River at the confluence of Roaring Creek.
Note that a German tourist was attacked while
visiting the park in 1995.

Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve

Wedged between Roaring Creek and Upper Barton Creek
in the northern foothills of the Mountain Pine
Ridge, not far from the capital city of Belmopan,
the 6,741-acre Tapir Mountain (formerly Society
Hall) Nature Reserve is an intact block of tropical
forest and home to all manner of flora and fauna. It
has been kept this way because of the determination
and foresight of its conservation-minded landowner.
Svea Dietrich-Ward had for many years sought a way
to permanently save this area. Finally, in 1986, the
German-born conservationist (now a dual citizen of
the U.S. and Belize who raises Arabian horses near
San Ignacio) entered a long-term lease agreement
with the Belize government on the condition that the
property╒s natural resources be protected. Soon
after, officials proclaimed it a ╥nature reserve.╙
(In Belize, this designation is a subcategory of the
National Parks System Act specifying that such lands
be preserved for scientific research and education
only.)

The nature reserve label means that Tapir Mountain
is not a destination for the casual tourist: the
only visitors legally allowed are researchers with
specific scientific objectives or groups of students
with competent leaders, all with prior permission. A
separate permit is required from the Belize Audubon
Society, since that organization is entrusted with
management duties for Tapir Mountain.

Perhaps the greatest threat to Tapir Mountain is
from encroachment into the reserve by farmers
engaged in slash-and-burn agriculture. A growing
number of Guatemalan and Salvadoran refugees are
practicing this traditional form of agriculture in
the area and there have been reports of this forest-
destroying practice actually occurring within Tapir
Mountain╒s  borders, apparently taking advantage of
the fact that the area is so remote. This is
compounded by the lack of access for land managers
to monitor and help prevent such deforestation. At
Dietrich-Ward╒s requests, the U.S.-based
conservation flying group, LightHawk, has monitored
and shown law enforcement officers these incursions
from the air.

The Tapir Mountain area consists of undulating
limestone karst topography dotted with sinkholes,
exposed rock outcrops, small streams, and bubbling
springs. Middens╤the garbage heaps of the Maya,
consisting mostly of shells, pot shards, and bones╤
are concealed by a dense forest of climbing vines,
cohune palms, and scores of other tree species. In
some of the valleys and low-lying portions of this
reserve, the forest canopy crests at nearly 100
feet. Massive brown termite nests envelop tree
trunks here and there, while leaf-cutter ants march
past brilliant red and yellow giant heliconias,
methodically going about the rigorous business of
collecting and transporting food for their vast
colonies. Once the leaves are collected, they are
masticated and regurgitated by the ants, who later
eat the fungus-covered results.

Like much of Belize, Tapir Mountain has probably
been selectively logged for such prized hardwoods as
mahogany, Santa MarÆ a, and Spanish cedar. This
species-specific logging has left the rest of the
reserve╒s tropical broadleaf moist forest
practically untouched. In 1994, a preliminary
biological survey of the reserve began to generate
baseline biological data and set the stage for
possible development of a tropical research and
training facility at Tapir Mountain. However, like
other protected areas the Belize Audubon Society
manages, Tapir Mountain needs financial support to
help protect it over the long haul.

If You Go: Because of the reserve's protected
status, access to the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve
is limited to scientists and other researchers.
Contact the Belize Audubon Society in Belize City
for specific information. Not far from Tapir
Mountain is the Slate Creek Preserve, a private,
community-based reserve spearheaded by Jim Bevis,
president of the Belize Ecotourism Association.
Contact Bevis at his Mountain Equestrian Trails for
information on access to this 3500-acre wilderness.

//This article is excerpted and adapted from Belize:
A Natural Destination, third edition, from John Muir
Publications.  ⌐  Richard Mahler, Steele Wotkyns,
and Kevin Schafer.//

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BRIEF UPDATE ON CARACOL

By MARSHALL KRANTZ

Belize's largest known ancient Mayan ruin, the once-
mighty city of Caracol, will be officially opened to
the public in April, according to the Belizean
Department of Archaeology.

    The public is already allowed on site, but now
independent travelers will no longer first need to
get a permit and then have it signed by a Forestry
Department official at Augustine. With the official
opening, visitors will pay a US$5 fee at the
entrance, according to Archaeological Commissioner
Brian Woodye. Cayo District lodges that operate
tours to Caracol already obtain permits, so lodge
guests will notice no difference.

    In further improvements, the notoriously rough,
dirt road into Caracol has been considerably tamed
thanks to continuing governmental road work. A half-
dozen pieces of heavy equipment were grading and
packing the road between the Macal River and
Caracol, reportedly the worst stretch, when I
traveled there in February. My companion and I never
once had to switch our rented Isuzu Trooper into
four wheel drive, although conditions were fairly
decent as it hadn't rained in a few days. I'd still
recommend four-wheel drive to be on the safe side,
and if nothing else than for high clearance over a
few watery spots on the road.

    When Caracol officially opens, visitors will
still be prohibited from wandering on their own. An
official, park guide leads tours daily at 10 a.m.
and 1 p.m. The tours last about two-and-a-half
hours.

    A small visitors center, under construction in
February, was expected to be completed in time for
the official opening. The center will contain
exhibits, a small store and gift shop, and enclosed
pit toilets to replace the decrepit, makeshift
outhouse now available.

    A large, dirt parking area has also been
graded, indicating perhaps that the government
expects a significant increase in attendance from
the few thousand visitors last year.

    As for the continuing archeological
investigation into Caracol, no new major excavations
were planned this year, according to Diane Chase, a
University of Central Florida archeologist who along
with her husband, Arlen, heads the Caracol Project.
Rather, she said, the Chases and their students will
examine and catalog much of what they found last
year. Previous finds include two royal tombs.

    A sixth- and seventh-century superpower in the
Maya world, Caracol was home to an estimated 180,000
people. Since excavation began in 1985, more than
4,000 structures have been discovered, nearly twice
that found at Tikal in an equivalent area. Only the
central core of Caracol has been extensively
excavated, however, including the Canaa, or Sky
Place, which served as Caracol's focal point of
religious and state power. The 156-foot-tall pyramid
remains Belize's tallest building.

    IF YOU GO:  Take your own food and water to
Caracol, and make sure your tank is full. Allow
about three hours for the drive from San Ignacio.
Good, Cayo district lodges that also operate Caracol
tours include Maya Mountain, Chaa Creek, Hidden
Valley, Pine Ridge, Blancaneaux and Mountain
Equestrian Trails (MET has discontinued its
horseback trips into Caracol, the road being so good
now). Camping at the entrance to Caracol or on site
is prohibited.

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BEST BOOKS ON BELIZE
(AND SOME YOU SHOULD AVOID)

By LAN SLUDER

Sometimes I think there are more guidebooks to
Belize than are tourists to this little country.  At
one time, it was difficult to find anything about
Belize;  now, the Belize information market is
segmented with dozens of guides, covering every
niche from diving to birding to ecotouring to Maya
tripping.

The good news is that most of the guides are first-
rate.  Paul Glassman, author of five pioneering
guides to Central America including Belize Guide
points out that today's guidebooks are far superior
to those available even just a few years ago:  "If
you can find a guidebook in the library from 20
years back, you'll find it woefully inadequate by
today's standards -- basic maps, a quick once-over
on food, recommendations that you take a tour rather
than giving instructions for doing it on your own."
Ironically -- see the review of the newly "updated"
edition of Glassman's guide below -- the new Belize
Guide, in its present form, and through no fault of
Glassman himself, is a sadly deficient version of
the earlier editions.

Here, to help you choose the guide or guides that
are best for you, is a quick review of some of the
best books on Belize.  Volumes of particular value
to those with an interest in Belize have been
awarded the "Recommended by Belize First" seal.  In
the case of guidebooks, timeliness is vital, and an
otherwise top guide may not earn the recommendation
due to lack of recent update.

Note my biases:  I prefer travel books that are
written by a single author, rather than by a
committee of writers and editors. I value books with
the latest information and good maps.  I don't care
much whether there are pretty photos or not,
although I recognize that many readers do.    A good
index (rare in travel books) is a plus.
Other books on Belize of special note are also
listed here.  Unless otherwise indicated, all
editions are paperback.

BELIZE GUIDEBOOKS

Belize Handbook, by Chicki Mallan.  ISBN 1-56691-
030-7.  Moon Publications,  3rd ed., 1995.  364 pp.
US$15.95.  Every Moon guide I've ever used has been
wonderful, with solid research, readable design,
good maps, and sensible views on environmental
issues. This revised edition of the Belize Handbook
is no exception.     It's reliable, well-organized,
easy to use, and packed with good ideas on enjoying
Belize to the fullest.  Chicki Mallan was visiting
Belize before many of us had ever heard of the
place, and she knows her stuff.   The photos, mostly
by Oz Mallan, provide a good, ground-level feel for
the country and its people.  Update research for the
third edition was done by Phil Lanier (who has
contributed several pieces to BELIZE FIRST).
Although Belize is changing so fast in some places
that no guidebook can keep up, in general this Moon
guide does a good job on giving you the latest poop.
I especially like the two separate indexes for
hotels and restaurants, in addition to the main
index.  Maps?  There are 45 excellent ones.  If
you're going to Belize, you need this guide.
Period.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

 Belize A Natural Destination, by Richard Mahler and
Steele Wotkyns.  ISBN 1-56261-221-2.  John Muir
Publications,   3rd. ed., 1995.  326 pp., US$16.95.
Those who give a damn about the real Belize, the
natural Belize, will find this ecoguide inspiring
and invaluable.  It covers just about everything
you'll want to do and see in Belize --  Mayan sites,
jungle trips, fishing, diving, kayaking, biking.
True,  A Natural Destination doesn't provide some of
the nitty-gritty details of restaurants and hotels
that regular guidebooks do.  But one of the best
things about it is the last 40 or so pages -- this
"Inside Belize" section provides a surprising amount
of hard information on Belize, including scores of
information sources on Belize that many other guides
just don't cover.  A negative for me is the book's
traditional design, without many boxes and
breakouts.  It's just not as accessible as, say,
Moon's Belize Handbook, but the photos, by  Kevin
Schafer, are an asset.    Co-author Rich Mahler has
contributed to BELIZE FIRST, and his article on Cayo
appears in this issue of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

The New Key to Belize, by Stacy Ritz.  ISBN 1-56975-
034-3.  Ulysses Press, 2nd ed., 1995, 209 pp.
US$14.95.  I'm a Stacy Ritz fan, more so than ever
since I saw her Hidden Carolinas, which is one of
the best guides to my home state of North Carolina
and to South Carolina.   I was less than impressed
with New Key to Belize when it first came out in
1994, especially in comparison with the benchmark
New Key to Costa Rica.  But having used the original
edition, I now find Ritz's judgments to be sound and
insightful.  The new 2nd edition has been sensibly
updated and includes hotels and listings that some
of the other new guides have missed.  In fact, as of
now this may be the most up-to-date guidebook on the
market.  Color photos by Doug Perrine;  14 maps but
in need of more and better ones.  "Green ratings"
for environmental efforts go to 25 resorts.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry S. Pariser.
ISBN 1-55650-647-3.  Hunter Publishing, 3rd. ed.,
1995, 366 pp.  US$14.95.  This is one of the most
comprehensive and useful guides to Belize.  It ranks
with the Moon Belize Handbook and the New Key to
Belize as a good traveling companion, and, like
Belize, A Natural Destination, and the similarly
named Adventuring in Belize, it takes an
ecologically aware approach.  Very detailed.  Color
photos;  38 maps.  Harry Pariser's articles on
Belize have appeared in past issues of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Adventuring in Belize, by Eric Hoffman.  ISBN 0-
87156-592-7.  Sierra Club Books, 1994, 371 pp.
US$15.  A recent traveler to Belize told me he used
several guides to the country, but he liked this one
the best.  Author Hoffman obviously knows a great
deal about Belize and has a refreshing honesty when,
for example, he admits to a lack of knowledge about
Belize City restaurants resident Meb Cutlack to
assess them.  Still, the guide is now getting long
in the tooth in fast-changing Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Insight Guides Belize.  Tony Perrottet, ed.  ISBN 0-
395-71053-7.  Houghton Mifflin, 1995, 332 pp.
US$21.95.  Everyone has such wonderful things to say
about the Insight series that it's almost heresy to
express less than absolute awe for these lavishly
illustrated and beautifully printed volumes.  I
wonder, though, if anyone actually reads one of
these guides?  The quality of the reportage
certainly varies.  In the case of the Belize volume,
which has about a dozen different contributors, it
seems to me that those who know Belize aren't
especially good writers, and the good writers don't
know that much about Belize.  The photographs,
mostly by U.S.-expat and Dangriga resident Tony
Rath, are amazing, surely the best collection of
Belize photos ever put together in one place.  They
alone are worth the price of the book.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Guide to Belize, by Alex Bradbury.  ISBN 1-56440-
532-X.  Globe Pequot Press, 1994, 326 pp.  US$15.95.
Bradbury, both a professional diver and a biologist,
brings a unique perspective to Belize travel
journalism.  I'd love to see a complete update of
this well-done guide, because much of the practical
detail on hotels, restaurants, and prices is now
yesterday's news.  Alex Bradbury contributed an
article on Ambergris Caye to Vol. II, No. 4 of
BELIZE FIRST.

Belize Guide, by Paul Glassman, updated by Ron
Charles.  ISBN 1-883323-25-8.  Open Road Publishing,
7th ed., 1996, 332 pp., US$14.95.  Paul Glassman is
one of the best travel writers covering Belize and
the region.  He has contributed to BELIZE FIRST.
But, in a dispute over royalties and other matters,
the new edition of the classic Belize Guide, while
showing a Glassman copyright, was not updated by
him.   Glassman says:  "I did not have anything to
do with the so-called 1996 update of Belize Guide,
and the publisher has paid no royalties on it.   I
do not endorse it as being accurate or up-to-date."
Myself, I find the updating spotty at best.  For
example,  in the Placencia section, it leaves out
most of the new places that have opened in the past
year or two, and in the Mountain Pine Ridge such new
spots as Five Sisters Lodge.    A sidebar on the
British Defence Forces is grossly out of date,
including a mention of the closed Adventure Inn in
Consejo.   For a book that claims to be copyrighted
in 1996, this is inexcusable.  The new chapter on
"Most Memorable Hotels and Inns"  reads like
advertorial to me.  For example, the section on
Maruba Resort goes on for a page a half piling
adjective upon adjective:  "Maruba is one of the
most exotic properties anywhere in the world!  The
Nicholsons have spent the past 9 years creating this
deluxe jungle resort .... you can't help but feel
you have finally found paradise the moment you
arrive here....The independent cabanas are the
perfect choice for romantic honeymooners, especially
the magic Chapel Room ... Guests are truly pampered
with personalized service offered by the friendliest
staff in Belize... Maruba gets my highest
recommendation, and it should not be missed."  The
eight "most memorable" in Belize are, according to
the non-Glassman chapter (it is not made clear who
the "I" is who does these glowing recommendations):
Ramada Royal Reef, Radisson Fort George, Serenity,
Rum Point, Captain Morgan's, Duplooy's, Hidden
Valley Inn, and Maruba.   Although some of these are
fine places, to leave out such truly memorable
lodges as Chan Chich, Blancaneaux, Lamanai Lodge,
and Chaa Creek shows, to put the most charitable
spin on it, ignorance of what many Belize travelers
want.  This new edition is NOT recommended by BELIZE
FIRST.

MULTI-COUNTRY GUIDEBOOKS

Many guides cover several or even all countries in
the region.  These can be of value if you are
traveling to more than one country.  The
disadvantage is that, in most cases, coverage of any
one country -- specifically of Belize, which tends
to get short shrift in regional guidebooks -- is
less comprehensive than the single-country guides.

Mexico & Central America Handbook.  Ben Box, editor.
Passport Books, 6th ed., 1995.  927 pp.  US$21.95.
This and the South America Passport guides are
almost universally recommended by seasoned travelers
for those who are visited several countries.  And no
wonder.  They pack tons of detailed information in
hundreds of pages of tiny type on thin paper.  The
47-page Belize section, while generally on target,
is not quite as up-to-date as it could be,
especially on Placencia and Cayo.  Recommended  if
you are traveling widely in the region and wish to
take only one or two general guides.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Guatemala, Belize & Yucatç n, La Ruta Maya, by Tom
Brosnahan.  ISBN 0-86442-220-2.  Lonely Planet,
1994, 2nd. ed., 508 pp.  US$16.95.  Meticulously
researched, authoritatively written guide to the
main Maya sites in the region.  Good hotel,
restaurant and other sightseeing information,
although with changes since late 1993 and early 1994
not included it's getting to be time for an update.
Tom Brosnahan is one of the world's most experienced
travel writers, having penned more than two dozen
guidebooks.  A piece by him appeared in the Vol. II,
No. 3 edition of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Rough Guide to Guatemala & Belize, by Mark Whatmore
and Peter Eltringham.  Rough Guides, 2nd ed., 1993
(3rd ed., 1996,  due out shortly).   512 pp.
US$14.95.   The new 3rd edition, although not
available for review at the time this issue of
BELIZE FIRST went to press, is expected to follow
the path of excellence of the previous two editions.
Rough Guides are known for their exacting research,
and they often are the favorites of travel writers.
The Rough Guide to Guatemala & Belize is, in a word,
terrific, and I only wish the entire volume were
devoted to Belize.  The new 3rd edition will also
cover the Honduras Bay Islands.  An update on
Placencia co-authored by Peter Eltringham is in this
issue of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Adventuring in Central America, by David Rains
Wallace.  ISBN 0-87156-473-4.  Sierra Club, 1995.
445 pp.  US$16.    This volume owes it existence to
the Paseo Pantera, created by two conservation
organizations, the Wildlife Conservation Society and
the Caribbean Conservation Corporation, with some
funding by the U.S. Agency for International
Development.   The Path of the Panther is devoted to
"restoring the land bridge" in Central America, in
part by supporting nature tourism and helping
national parks in the region.  Although the goals of
Paseo Pantera are laudable, and Wallace is a
knowledgeable writer, like so many worthy efforts
this one turns out to heavy going for the typical
reader.  The book design is stultifying, and the
text at times runs on and on.  C'mon, Sierra Club,
put a little pizzaz in your Panther!

Berkeley Guides Central America.  ISBN 0-679-02979-
6.  Fodor's Travel Publications, 2nd ed. , 1996.
501 pp.  US$18.95.   Written by and for a young
audience, this is the kind of guide that calls
Tony's in Corozal Town "ritzy"  and Dangriga the
"New Jack City of Belize."   The 58 pages devoted to
Belize offer some good information, but they miss a
lot, especially for the older or middle-class
traveler.  Overpriced, considering what you get.

Frommer's Costa Rica, Guatemala & Belize on $35 a
Day, by Karl Samson with Jane Aukshunas.  Macmillan
Travel, 3rd ed., 1995.   372 pp.  US$15.95.
Frommer's got its start as a budget travel guide,
and although most of its guides now cover all levels
of travel,  the Costa Rica, Guatemala and Belize
volume, now co-authored by Karl Samson's wife, Jane
Aukshunas,  has refocused on budget travel.  I've
used previous editions of this guide in Belize and
Costa Rica, and I appreciate its organization and
easy-to-out layout.  The 70 pages on Belize provide
generally reliable and accurate info, but for most
Belize travelers, even budget ones, this is just not
enough.   No photos, very limited maps.

The Maya Road, by Jim Conrad.  ISBN 1-55650-522-1.
Hunter Publishing, 1992, 274 pp.  US$15.95.
Intelligent guide to Mayan sites in Belize,
Guatemala, and Eastern Mexico, although it is now
somewhat out-of-date on practical details such as
access to Caracol.

OTHER BOOKS ABOUT BELIZE AND THE REGION
Belize Retirement Guide, by  Bill and Claire Gray.
ISBN 1-880862-46-8.  Preview Publishing, 3rd. ed.,
1995.   139 pp.  US$19.95.    This book talks turkey
on a subject a lot of folks want to know about:  Is
Belize a good place to retire?  The answer,
according to the authors (who live much of the year
in Corozal) is Yes.  They say you can "live in a
tropical paradise on your Social Security check
alone."    You can digest Belize Retirement Guide in
one sitting, and you may still be hungry for more
details, but one thing is clear:  If you're thinking
about Belize for relocation or retirement, this book
is a necessary starting point, with down-to-earth,
practical advice by people who have done it
themselves.   The new 3rd edition (the original
edition came out in 1990) is much improved, with
color photos and a good deal of new or updated
information.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Warlords and Maize Men, a Guide to the Maya Sites of
Belize, by Byron Foster, ed.  ISBN 968-6233-06-7.
Cubola Productions, 2nd ed., 1992, 82 pp.  US$10.
This was the first popular guide to 15 important
Maya sites in Belize.  It's one of a series of
interesting volumes, both non-fiction and fiction,
published by Cubola in Benque Viejo del Carmen,
Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

The Best Mexican & Central American Travel Tips, by
John Whitman.  ISBN 0-06-273268-4.  HarperPerennial,
1994.  356 pp.  US$15.  The author attempts to
duplicate the success of his Best European Travel
Tips, which has sold 250,000 copies since 1981 with
this compendium of travel tips, both basic ("never
sleep under a coconut palm") and advanced ("if you
find yourself surrounded by jellyfish, dive down and
try to swim under them.")  Most of the tips are the
kinds of things travelers pick up their own, from
trial and error and talking with other travelers.
The vast majority of the tips relate to  culture and
language of the Spanish-speaking countries in the
region, and there are only a few pages of
information specifically about Belize.  This book
may be useful for the novice traveler visiting
Mexico and a number of Central American countries,
it is of very limited value to Belize travelers.

Sastun, My Apprenticeship with a Maya Healer, by
Rosita Arvigo with Nadine Epstein.   ISBN 0-06-
250255-7  HarperSanFrancisco, 1994.  190 pp.  US$22
cloth.   The story of U.S. herbologist Rosita
Arvigo's apprenticeship to the late Don Elijio
Panti, renowned Mayan healer.  Fascinating!
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

The Maya, by Michael D. Coe.  ISBN 0-500-27716-8.
Thames and Hudson, 5th ed., 1993.  224 pp.
US$14.95.  Yale professor Michael Coe is one of the
giant figures in Mayan studies.  If you want a
scholarly but readable short overview of the Maya
civilization, this is a good choice.  However, it is
extremely limited in its Belize references.  In the
text and in the many fine illustrations there are
only a few mentions of Belize.  The focus is mostly
on Mexico and Guatemala.

"Hey, Dad, This is Belize" by Emory King.  Tropical
Press, 4th printing, 1994.  Originally published in
the Belize Times in the 1970s, these sketches, most
of them in a light vein by Belize's most famous
expat, now are a window on a quieter time in Belize
City and the country.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Diving and Snorkeling Guide to Belize, by Franz O.
Meyer.  ISBN 1-55992-033-5.  Pisces Books, 1990, 96
pp.  US$11.95.   Overview of dive and snorkel sites
in Belize.  Lots of color photos, some maps.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Inside Belize, by Tom Barry.  ISBN 0-911213-39-2.
Inter-Hemispheric Education Resource Center, 1992,
193 pp.  US$10.95.   Good general overview of Belize
history, society, economy, politics, and education.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

Belize, a Guide to Business Investment and
Retirement, by George W. Rea.  The Business Company,
1995, 99 pp.  US$29.95.  Contains basic information
on living in and doing business in Belize.  Forms,
contact names.

MAPS
Driver's Guide to Beautiful Belize, by Emory King.
Tropical Books.  Updated annually.  US$12.  This
mile-by-mile guide is a must if you're driving in
Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

International Travel Map to Belize.  ISBN 0-921463-
24-3.  ITMB Publishing, 3rd edition, 1995.  US$7.95.
This 1:350,000-scale map is the best general map of
Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE

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COMPARING THE GUIDEBOOKS
WHAT EIGHT GUIDES RECOMMEND
IN CONSEJO AND SEINE BIGHT

Comparing what different guidebooks recommend at the
same destination can be an eye-opener.  Here are
hotel recommendations by eight guidebooks in two
areas,  Placencia/Seine Bight and Corozal
Town/Consejo.   We've focused on these two areas
because they are slightly off-the-beaten-track
destinations and both have had some recent changes
in hotels.  The date shown is the copyright date,
which may not be the date the research for the book
was done.   Recommendations shown are in the order
they appear in the guides, and are in various price
ranges.  At the end of each section are current
recommendations in all prices ranges by BELIZE
FIRST.

Placencia/Seine Bight

Belize Handbook,  by Chicki Mallan, with new
research by Phil Lanier, 1995:  Singing Sands, Blue
Crab Resort, Nautical Inn, Auntie Chigi's Place,
Jamie's Rooms, Lucille's Rooms, Sunrider Guest
House, Traveler's Inn, Julia's, D&L Resort, Conrad &
Lydia's Rooms, Paradise Vacation Resort, Deb &
Dave's Last Resort, Harry's Rentals, Sonny's,
Tradewinds, Sea Spray, Westwind, Serenity, Rum
Point, Kitty's, Turtle Inn, Mother Ocean's Tropic
Hotel, Village Inn.

New Key to Belize, by Stacy Ritz, 1996:  Ranguana
Lodge, Sonny's, Deb & Dave's Last Resort, Barracuda
and Jaguar Inn, Kitty's, Rum Point Inn, Nautical
Inn, French Quarter Belize, Singing Sands Inn.
Belize Guide, (originally by Paul Glassman but
updated by Ron Charles --"I did not have anything to
do with the so-called 1996 update of Belize Guide,"
says Glassman), 1996:   Rum Point Inn, Serenity
Resort, Nautical Inn, Kitty's, Westwinds, Turtle
Inn, Mother Ocean's, Sonny's, Trade Winds, Ranguana
Lodge, Ran's, Hotel Hello, Seaspray, Lucille's, Miss
Lydia's, Paradise Vacation Hotel.

Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry Pariser, 1995:
Ranguana Lodge, Sonny's, Paradise Vacation Resort,
Tradewinds, Village Inn, Cove Resort (now Mother
Ocean's), Turtle Inn, Kitty's, Serenity Resort, Rum
Point Inn, Nautical Inn, Blue Crab Resort, Singing
Sands.

Adventuring in Belize, by Eric Hoffman, 1994:  Rum
Point Inn, Kitty's Place, Turtle Inn, Paradise
Vacation Hotel, Sonny's, Tradewinds.

Adventuring in Central America, by David Rains
Wallace, 1995:   Paradise Vacation Hotel.  None in
Seine Bight.

Berkeley Guides Central America, 1996:  Conrad and
Lydia's Rooms, Paradise Vacation Resort, Dr. Ted.
None in Seine Bight.

Frommer's Costa Rica, Guatemala & Belize on $35 a
Day, by Karl Samson with Jane Aukshunas, 1995:
Paradise Vacation Hotel, Seaspray, Village Inn,
Ranguana Lodge, Sonny's, Ranguana Reef Resort.  None
in Seine Bight.

BELIZE FIRST Recommendations:   Kitty's, Turtle Inn,
Rum Point Inn, Nautical Inn, French Quarter Belize,
Green Parrot, Seine Bight Hotel, Singing Sands,
Tradewinds, Deb & Dave's Last Resort, Coconut
Cottage, Barracuda and Jaguar Inn, Sea Spray,
Westwind, Ranguana Lodge, Ranguana Reef Resort,
Julia's, Conrad & Lydia's Rooms.

Corozal Town/Consejo

Belize Handbook,  by Chicki Mallan, with new
research by Phil Lanier, 1995:  Tony's, Caribbean
Village, Hotel Maya, Capri Hotel, Hotel Posada Mama,
Nestor's, Santa Cruz Lodge, Lagoon Campground.  None
in Consejo.

New Key to Belize, by Stacy Ritz, 1996:  Santa Cruz
Lodge, Tony's Inn, Hotel Maya.  None in Consejo.
Belize Guide,  (originally by Paul Glassman but
updated by Ron Charles), 1996:     Adventure Inn
(now closed), Tony's, Posada Mama, Caribbean Motel
and Trailer Park (now called Caribbean Village),
Maya Hotel, Capri Hotel, Nestor's

Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry Pariser, 1995:
Capri, Nestor's, Hotel Maya, Caribbean Village,
Tony's, Hotel Posada Mama, Camino Real.  None in
Consejo.

Adventuring in Belize, by Eric Hoffman, 1994:
Adventure Inn (now closed), Tony's, Hotel Maya
Adventuring in Central America, by David Rains
Wallace, 1995:  None in Corozal Town or Consejo.

Berkeley Guides Central America, 1996:  Capri Hotel,
Caribbean Motel (now called Caribbean Village),
Hotel Maya, Nestor's Hotel.  None in Consejo.

Frommer's Costa Rica, Guatemala & Belize on $35 a
Day, by Karl Samson with Jane Aukshunas, 1995:
Caribbean Motel (now called Caribbean Village),
Nestor's, Hotel Maya, Tony's.  None in Consejo.

BELIZE FIRST Recommendations:  Tony's, Santa Cruz
Resort, Nestor's, Hotel Maya, Caribbean Village,
Hotel Posada Mama, Lagoon Campground.  Casablanca in
Consejo.


//Lan Sluder is editor and publisher of Belize First
Magazine.  He is a widely published travel writer
and author or co-author of several books including
Frommer's Best Beach Vacations:  Carolinas and
Georgia, out from Macmillan in April 1996.  Belize
First, ad-free and independent,  is published
quarterly in traditional and Internet editions.
Back issues of Belize First (most in html text only)
are available at  http://www.turq.com/belizefirst.//



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SEASIDE BELIZE:
CRUISING THE CASUAL COAST

Tico-Owned, 63-Passenger M/V Temptress Voyager
Now Tours Belize's Coastal Nooks and Crannies ...
And Two-Thirds of the Crew are Belizean


By MARSHALL KRANTZ

It's no secret to Belize cognoscenti that many of
the best places along the Belizean coast are remote.
Those places lay at the end of long, rough roads
unburdened by much in the way of public
transportation, or they essentially are accessible
only by water. Monkey River comes to mind, as does
Gale's Point. Even Placencia and Punta Gorda, which
are accessible by air, can be considered remote by
today's travel standards, when any commercial
airplane equipped with propellers and no aisle
qualifies as "primitive."

Perhaps it's true, part of Belize's charm--and what
makes it unspoiled by mass tourism--is that only the
determined tourist can achieve Belize's outlying
regions, which amounts to a fair chunk of the
country.

But for the soft adventurer, Belize's outlying
regions are now easily in reach--and in comfort--
thanks to the M/V Temptress Voyager,  a locally
based, multi-day cruise ship. Temptress Voyager,
which inaugurated service in December 1995, is the
only cruise ship to sail exclusively in Belizean
waters and the only cruise ship to operate in Belize
year round.

In Belize, Temptress has followed a formula
developed in Costa Rica, where the Tico-owned
company began 1991. The company emphasizes active,
casual travel. The ship moves to new locales
primarily at night while during the day serving as a
floating base for snorkeling, scuba diving,
kayaking, nature walks, wildlife watching, and river
explorations via motorized rubber dinghies. That
formula, which I experienced in Costa Rica earlier,
proved so successful that Temptress  moved the 63-
passenger Temptress  to Belize to make way for a
new, 100-passenger ship.

During the first few months of operations, Temptress
Belize cruises have been going out about half full,
less in a few cases.  This is about what management
expected, according to Kathy Strempel, a public
relations spokesperson in Miami.  The company's
Costa Rica cruises range from 60 to 90 percent of
capacity, low to high season, respectively,  and
have been running 98 percent in early 1996.
I sailed aboard the Temptress in February, and as a
Belize neophyte, found the six-day trip a satisfying
sampler of Belize's natural beauty and cultural
diversity. The itinerary comprised Placencia, Punta
Gorda, Monkey and Sittee rivers, Southern Lagoon and
Gale's Point, the Garifuna village of Hopkins, and
the small cayes of Goff's, Snake's, Tobacco, and
Laughing Bird--in short, some of the best of the
Belizean coast from Belize City southward to Punta
Gorda.

Upon boarding ship Sunday afternoon off Belize City,
at the Radisson Fort George dock,  and making my way
to the open-air bar on the top deck, I was greeted
by the musical strains of Belizean Bumm & Chime and
the quartet's Caribbean-style version of "Your
Cheating Heart."  I'd never before heard the old
country-and-western standard accompanied by a guy
playing percussion on the jaw bone of a horse.
Other musical fare included Garifuna dance
performances at Hopkins and Seine Bight near
Placencia, a Mayan music and dance presentation
aboard ship at Punta Gorda, and several bouts of
passenger participation in Garifuna-inspired Punta
Rock dancing at the ship's bar.

As a national dance rage, Punta Rock exemplifies
Belize's easy-going, free-wheeling spirit. Or as
Janice, dining room attendant and Punta Rock dance
teacher extraordinaire, put it, "It's called Punta
Rock because you get right to the point!"  Despite
this explanation, and the repeated hip-thrusting
motions incorporated into the dance routine, some
passengers still failed to get the point.

The cruise's cultural aspects notwithstanding, the
strengths of the cruise is the nature and wildlife
watching, along with the water sports. Temptress'
water and land mobility, combined with the expertise
of local guides, made for fulfilling wildlife
viewing.

In Monkey River, for example, we motored up river
for about 40 minutes and then landed on the bank for
an hour's walk through the forest. Although we
glimpsed a few howler monkeys in the trees from the
dinghies, the combined shore foray down-river, on a
trail cut by the local guides, put us right under a
family of howlers. The monkeys casually observed us
for as long as we observed them--just a couple bands
of primates on a day's outing in the woods. Our
guide, Brian Garbutt, of Monkey River Town, also
pointed out a fresh jaguar track, probably made the
night before, he said, by a cat weighing about 150
pounds.

Birding was especially bountiful, once again thanks
to the cruise's land-water mobility (a nod must also
go to Belize's 500-plus species of birds). One
fellow passenger, a serious birder of U.S. national
standing, claimed seven new bird sightings,
including a solitary eagle--two more than her set
goal. A denizen of the temperate zone, I myself was
thrilled merely to see such commonplace tropical
birds as toucans and parrots.

Although the Temptress  only briefly gets close to
Belize's famed barrier reef (at Tobacco Caye), lots
of impressive coral reefs and tropical fish were on
display around the various small cayes we dropped in
on by dinghy. These places were perfect for
snorkelers--and just plain perfect, what with their
swaying palms and white-sand beaches--and a couple
of the islands were small enough to kayak around in
less than half an hour. (The Temptress  carries
eight, lightweight plastic kayaks.)

While the ship is fully equipped for dives--and in
fact one can get resort or full NAUI certification--
dedicated divers are probably better off sticking to
Belize's live-aboard dive boats. However, if you're
traveling with a spouse or friend who doesn't dive
or you want to mix other activities with diving,
Temptress  strikes the right balance.

One thing I especially liked about the cruise was
that, whenever feasible, passengers were offered
choices in excursions. So for example, at Southern
Lagoon one group set out in a rubber dinghy for some
manatee watching and then continued on to Gale's
Point for a little sightseeing while another group
took a forest walk and cave tour. In Punta Gorda, I
went with a couple of friends to visit Florence
Galvez, a retired school teacher, in a kind of meet-
the-locals program, while another group visited
Martin Enriquez's botanical farm, and yet a third
group hiked through the countryside and up a hill
for splendid view of the area.

In that same regard, I was glad on our last day we
were spared a tour of Belize City,  and instead
offered a choice of tours to the Mayan ruins at
Altun Ha or the Baboon (actually, howler monkey)
Sanctuary.

Temptress' use of local guides, tour operators and
cultural performers not only provides the expertise
to insure that passengers get the most from any one
locale, it also represents the cruise line's claimed
commitment to making sure Belizeans benefit
financially from the cruise line's involvement in
their country.

Toward that end, Temptress also buys all its fuel
and food in-country; and two-thirds of its 24-member
crew are Belizean, with that percentage to grow as
locals are trained in shipboard procedures,
according to cruise director Juan Jose Apeste. Large
Caribbean cruise ships, on the other hand, typically
buy all their food and fuel at their home port,
usually Miami, and hire foreign crew members. These
financially unbeneficial practices to host
countries, along with the hundreds of cruise
passengers who invade relatively small ports during
shore visits but spend little money, have made
cruise ships controversial in the Caribbean and
prompted the Belizean government to prohibit port
calls by ships with more than 800 passengers.

To avoid environmental damage, the Temptress anchors
well-away from coral reefs, up to one mile, under a
government agreement, said Apeste. In addition, he
said sewage is stored and treated aboard ship for
later disposal by truck at Belize City, and garbage
is collected for transport to a landfill.

Traditional cruise critics are mostly satisfied with
Temptress' efforts to practice low-impact ecotourism
and financial fertilization. William "Chet" Schmidt,
a member of the Toledo Ecotourism Association and
Temptress' local tour organizer in Punta Gorda, said
about 50 locals worked as a result of the Voyager's
visit to PG during my cruise, equal to the ship's
complement of passengers. Bart Mickler, a board
member of the Belize Ecotourism Association and
owner of Maya Mountain Lodge in the Cayo District,
said he considered Temptress "a very good asset" to
Belize.

The ship itself is pleasant and comfortable, and
though hardly luxurious by cruise standards almost
always exceeded the accommodations available--if
indeed any accommodations were available--at its
ports of call. The all-outside cabins measure about
110 square feet each, including private baths, and
are available with either double or twin beds. The
public rooms include a forward, inside lounge, the
bar and top deck, and a dining room that allows for
single-seating meals.

The atmosphere aboard the Temptress is more like
that on a dive boat than a typical cruise ship. For
example, convention had it that passengers dress for
meals, but that is, be dressed, minimally with a
shirt or blouse, which more often than not meant a
T-shirt; something to cover the body from waist to
upper thigh; and foot apparel with at least a sole,
although bare feet seemed negotiable. The only way
you'd know you were at the captain's dinner, a
formal affair on most cruises, was that we ate steak
and lobster that night.

Meals typically consisted of a choice of  grilled
beef, chicken or fish and were served either sit-
down or buffet style. Too often, unfortunately, the
served food came doused with calorie-laden, bland,
white sauces--an ill-fated attempt at gourmet
cooking, I presume. Simple, healthy food well-
prepared might win more plaudits. Same for the
desserts, which were often mediocre. I would have
appreciated fresh fruit for more than just for
breakfast.

The food service staff was friendly and attentive
though too often forgetful; maybe it's an under-
staffing problem. Cabin service, however, was
uniformly good.

Temptress' active-outdoors orientation and casual
style tend to draw a somewhat younger, more
adventurous crowd than the typical cruise.
Passengers are often couples in their forties,
fifties and sixties, though the company actively
courts families with children May through October
with a program of specially tailored activities,
arrangements and prices. Regardless of age,
passengers must be fit enough to negotiate the
transfer from ship to rubber dinghy, which can often
bounce in the water like a basketball in the custody
of Michael Jordan.


//Marshall Krantz is a travel writer living in
Oakland, California. He has contributed to the
Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Miami Herald,
airline inflight magazines, travel guidebooks, and
the travel anthologies Travelers' Tales Spain and
Travelers' Tales Mexico.  The cost of Krantz's trip
on  the Temptress and his air fare to Belize was
defrayed by the cruise line. //


IF YOU DECIDE TO GO

The six-day cruise costs $1,495 per person, double
occupancy.   Three-day cruises, which cover the
Belize City-Placencia or Placencia-Punta Gorda-
Belize City legs, cost $795 per person, double
occupancy.  Rates are lower in the off season from
April to September, $1,290 for the six-day cruise.
The cost includes all food; beverages, including
national-brand liquor; service, including guides and
laundry service; shore and water excursions;
cultural presentations; snorkeling and kayaking
equipment; and in-country arrival and departure
transfers. Guided dives and tanks are also included
in the cost but regulator rentals cost $30. Resort
certification costs $85; full NAUI certification
costs $350. Air transportation between Belize City
and Placencia is included for the three-day trips;
international air fare is not included.

For reservations or more information, contact a
travel agent or:

Temptress Voyages, 1600 N.W. LeJeune Road, Ste. 301,
Miami, FL 33126.
Tel. [phone],: 305-871-2663; fax. [phone].

In Belize:  P.O. Box 137, 67 Eve St., Belize City.
Tel. [phone], 32810;   fax. [phone], 31784.

In Costa Rica:  Cruceros del Sur, Centro Comercial
Las Torres #1, San JosÄ  1200, Costa Rica.  Tel.
506-220-1679;   fax [phone].



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Just an Ordinary Day in San Pedro

By JUDY WAYTIUK

The Lagoon restaurant is jammed, its airy, retro-
deco interior sodden with muggy heat. Norman Gosney,
owner, is in the kitchen frantically grilling
snapper.  Mrs. Norman Gosney, who lifts weights and
whose sinewy torso shows it,  waits tables. A
girlfriend visiting from New York clears dirty
dishes.  Tonight, everybody's pitching in.

Norman's cook went to the mainland to deal with a
family crisis. Norman's waitress called in sick.
Mrs. Norman scribbles for one patron the maple-syrup
salad dressing recipe she got from another friend,
before the Gosneys moved to Ambergris Caye. She
wouldn't have believed the dressing would fit local
ingredients-- mostly cabbage and carrots.

But it does, and so do the Gosneys, his British-born
accent blurred by New York twang, hers pure
American.  Like the other ex-pats, they're changing
the face of San Pedro. And the locals aren't sure
how to take it.  Estella Worthington, local girl,
runs Estel's Dine-By-the-Sea. Estel serves breakfast
and lunch, leaving night work to others. The Lagoon
has polished floors; Estel rakes the sand under her
wood-plank tables. Norman Gosney has put a tongue-
in-cheek "Valet Parking" sign outside the Lagoon.
At Estel's, husband Charlie, sleepy, barefoot and
rumpled, muses over the CD player on an old
sideboard perched precariously in the sand.  Once a
salesman who played in a band, Charlie, another
American, spied Estel's soft eyes across a room in a
Florida club one night, and fell for her. She took
awhile to convince, but eventually they ended up
together, back on Ambergris Caye, living above the
sand-floored diner.

Estel's niece, Zoby, hustles Belikin beer, onion
rings, and fried fish from kitchen to tourists.
Charlie regards himself as the public relations
department.

Estel, whose dark eyes are still soft, has a small
frown etched on her brow. It could be from squinting
into the sun, but it could be the pain. She's
favoring a bad ankle.  Ambergris Caye's fast track
to resort status has its share of sleeping
policemen, for which you slow down or lose an axle.
Sunset Bob slowed to full stop at the Sunset Bar, on
the roof of the Casablanca Hotel, which Norman
Gosney also runs above his restaurant. Bob has been
up here for three nights running to watch the sun go
down. He drove his ten-year-old white Caddy down
through the Midwestern U.S., then Mexico, into the
Belizean rainforest looking for a shaman.  Bob has
some sort of lung disease, but he won't say what it
is. The shaman made him feel better. In any case,
his Caddy is parked at the Belize City  airport, and
he's running an ad in a paper to sell it. If the
Caddy sells, he might call that an omen and stay
here.  Sunday morning, you find him on the pay phone
beside the Tropic Air terminal at the airstrip,
trying to reach Plymouth, Indiana.

Bob is one of the footloose. Others have put down
roots: Bruce and Victoria Collins, with their Jeep
Frankenstein. Once California realtors, they came to
squeeze in a rushed four-day holiday. They went
home, sold up,  and came back. They run the San
Pedro Sun newspaper, one of whose columnists,
another ex-pat, also plays guitar and sings around
town, and sometimes begs the tourists to stop asking
for "Margaritaville" again.

Saturday mornings, the Collinses have brunch at
Fido's Courtyard overlooking the sea.  This morning,
the American who moments ago owned Fido's stands at
the bar beside the two Americans who just bought it.
All three are in celebratory mode, unaware of the
children splashing in the shallows a few feet away.
The kids, with the strong features and mahogany skin
of the Maya, noisily scrub conch shells they'll try
to sell later to tourists.

The Collinses just brought Frankenstein back from
bodywork on the mainland. They had to explain that
in their paper, after the town fathers banned the
import of more cars. There are too many on the
island now. Silent electric golf carts and bicycles
get muscled aside on the sand roads by monoxide-
belching North American monsters.

Local yellow dogs can't even doze in the middle of
Front Street these days: carts, bikes and
pedestrians go round, but San Pedro pups can't
depend on cars to swerve for them.

Norman Eiley always sidesteps the dogs. Born and
raised here, he was a fisherman until the co-op came
in and there wasn't enough fish to share out. He
went building houses, but on the side, he was
putting together his boat, the Southern Beauty.
It took a few years.

The boat was his way back to the sea, not to fish,
but to carry tourists. Sturdy, with glass bottom,
she has a side door for clumsy snorkelers, and a
heavy wooden shade cover. She's thick-waisted and
stubby, and wallows alongside the fiberglass
cigarette boats sporting canvas tops, but Norman
Eiley is proud of her, and of his teenage son,
Francis.  Francis goes with Norman on the boat, to
guard the precious live reef from souvenir-hungry
fools. As the ex-pats crowd into San Pedro waving
development schemes and condo plans, the locals flee
in their skiffs, to make livings carrying tourists
to fish, swim, or go to Caye Caulker or the
mainland. San Pedro's long jetties are crowded with
these boats in the evenings.

Norman Eiley strolls the warm sand along Front
Street, nodding pleasantly to the tourists. Charlie
and Estel are locking up the restaurant, on their
way to a charity fund-raiser at the Lion's Club.
Their door has stuck again, swollen from salt air.
Norman Gosney's cook is back from the mainland.

Norman leans against the Lagoon's porch post with
the menu stapled to it. He says he may move on in a
few years. He becomes bored quickly, and moves
around often.  Norman Eiley, on the other hand,
isn't going anywhere. The Southern Beauty, tethered
until morning, slumbers in the moonlight. Francis is
off partying at one of the loud bars at the north
end of town.  Eiley's gentle smile seems just a
little wistful.

//Judy Waytiuk is a long-time writer and journalist
who spends much of the cold Canadian winter in the
Caribbean.//

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PLACENCIA UPDATE:

NEW AND RECOMMENDED SPOTS IN PLACENCIA

By PETER ELTRINGHAM

With Additional Research by Alex Arnesen

In Vol. III, No. 1, BELIZE FIRST ran a series of
articles on Placencia and Southern Belize.  This
article, by Peter Eltringham, co-author (with Mark
Whatmore) of Guatemala & Belize, The Rough Guide,
with additional research by Alex Arnesen, provides
additional recommendations on hotels, restaurants,
and dive operations and highlights several new
spots.  It is based on research in Placencia in late
1995 and early 1996.

Shaded by palm trees, cooled by the Caribbean
breeze, Placencia is perched on the tip of a long,
narrow, sandy peninsula.  Fifty-five road miles
south of Dangriga, and accessible by air, boat, and
a dirt road, Placencia is light years away from the
hustle and hassle of Belize City.

The Placencia peninsula begins at Riversdale, a
small community of wooden houses on stilts at the
edge of the sea where the branch road from the
Southern Highway heads south.  From here, Placencia
village is 16 miles away.  You're almost always in
sight of the water, the Caribbean on one side and
the mangrove lagoon on the other.

Maya Beach, about halfway between Riversdale and
Placencia, has some fine accommodations.  Singing
Sands (already covered in the article in Vol. III,
No. 1 of BELIZE FIRST) is one.  Another is the newly
completed Green Parrot Beach Houses, owned by
Canadians Ray Twanow and Colleen Fleury, in a
beautiful location.  Design at the Green Parrot has
been a prime consideration.  There are true beach
houses on stilts with a spacious deck outside, a
superb kitchen downstairs, and a loft bedroom with a
queen and a single bed upstairs.  The living room
couch also becomes a bed, so each house can
accommodate up to five people without being cramped.
The restaurant also has well-designed, locally built
furniture and looks promising, although it wasn't
quite ready when I visited.  The Green Parrot's
rates are a welcome change from the generally over-
priced peninsula:  US$85 per house for up to five.
To book, phone or fax [phone].

Further south, in Seine Bight village, a new
small hotel offers some of the best value
accommodation north of Placencia.  Owned, designed,
and largely built by an English couple, Mike and
Pamela Hazeltine, the Hotel Seine Bight (tel. 501-6-
22491) has only three rooms, ranging from a budget
US$25 for a comfortable downstairs double room
around twice that for a spacious upstairs room with
deck. The building is a series of connected
octagons, constructed of hardwood with thatched
roofs. The largest of these is the restaurant, with
the main seating area on the ground floor and a
couple of tables at windows upstairs for more
intimate dining.  Pamela has promised a full-service
international menu,  with plenty of fresh vegetables
and home-baked breads and desserts.

Kitty's Place (tel. [phone];   fax 501-6-
23226) is a long-time favorite of mine.  The range
of accommodation is excellent,  and it's all very
well thought out.  You have the choice of the
Colonial apartment, beach cabaû as, Colonial and
Garden rooms, a studio apartment, and a couple of
budget rooms.  Prices are from US$108 down to US$43
double.  The restaurant is now under the
professional direction of a young, well-traveled
American called Jay.  The menu reflects the places
Jay has visited, offering delicious Belizean and
international fare.

Kitty and her partner, Ran, offer a great sea
kayaking trip to French Louis Caye, a tiny island
fringed with mangroves 8 miles due east from the
resort.  You can paddle a kayak from Kitty's, using
a map drawn by Ran, camp on the caye overnight
(using your own equipment or sleep in a hammock in
the two-story wood house if no one else is using it)
with plenty of food provided for three meals -- all
for US$50 per person, including snorkeling gear.  In
the house is a kitchen with gas burners and pots and
if you want exclusive use of the caye it will cost
US$150 for two people, including transport from
Kitty's and snorkeling equipment.  If you don't want
to cook for yourself, Kitty can organize someone to
cook.  The resident caretaker on the caye is in
radio contact with Kitty's and even if you're on
your own the radio will be there for emergencies.

The center of the caye is sand with a few
coconut trees.  Ran plans to put camping platforms
among the mangrove roots.  Mosquitoes are not a
problem as there's no open fresh water.  All around
is great snorkeling, with lots of hard and soft
corals, sea anemones, and huge schools of tiny fish
among the mangrove roots.  There's even a resident
pair of ospreys, nesting in a mature white mangrove,
successfully rearing chicks every year.

Ranguana Lodge, in Placencia village, is the
jumping-off point for Ranguana Caye, another
privately owned island 18 miles southeast.  The
lodge at Placencia consists of five beautiful white
cabaû as with varnished hardwood interiors, all with
hot water, fridge, and coffee maker, for US$60
double in the high season.  Three of them are right
on the beach, and the two behind are located so all
have views of the sea.  Each cabin has a balcony
with hammocks for relaxing and the whole place is
very friendly and well run.

On the caye, Ranguana Reef Resort has three
cabins facing the sea and enjoying the constant
breeze on a jewel of an island only 120 yards long
by 20 yards wide.  The cabins have a bedroom with
two very comfortable beds and a well-equipped
kitchen (bring food.)  Water is from rainwater vats,
pure and fresh.  It looked to me like there was
enough storage for a dry year, never mind a dry
season, but there's also a desalination plant just
in case.  The showers and toilets are immaculate,
and there's even hot water.  Wind generators and
solar panels provide electricity for lights, with
back-up provided by a gasoline generator.  The
cabins are US$45 double or you can camp with your
own tent for US$7.  The sand is much softer and the
palm trees are taller and more stately than in
Placencia.  Sunset silhouettes mountain ranges in
Honduras and the Maya Mountains in Belize.  Splendid
isolation, indeed.  Ranguana Caye is surrounded by
patch reefs, and for divers the shelf and drop-off
down to 2,500 feet begin half a mile offshore.
Transport is not provided in the price -- a boat for
four people will cost US$75 each way, so you'll need
to calculate this in the total.  Your boat captain
will probably be Mark Leslie, a very experienced
guide, who's guided both EcoSummer and Island
Expeditions sea kayaking tours.  Kayaks are
available for rent on the caye.

To book either Ranguana Lodge or Ranguana Reef
Resort, call or fax [phone].

Coconut Cottage (tel. and fax [phone]) is
another new hotel right on the beach in Placencia.
In this case, the description "cottage" is entirely
appropriate.  It's a gorgeous cream cabin with green
trim and deck offering two immaculately clean and
beautifully decorated rooms equipped with fridge and
coffee maker and a hot shower.  Quiet, romantic, and
highly recommended, it's run by Kay Wesby, whose
husband Joel is an expert fishing guide.  US$55
double.

The Barracuda and Jaguar Inn (tel. and fax 501-
6-23250), set in rich tropical gardens, has two
varnished wooden cabins and a thatched restaurant,
Pickled Parrot Bar & Grill.  The cabins have two
double beds and plenty of storage space for clothes.
The large deck has lounge chairs and a hammock.  Run
by Canadian Wende Bryan and Englishman Anton
Holmes,
the bar is a great place for travelers to exchange
information, and Wende is a great cook.  The cabins
are only US$48 double, including breakfast, one of
the best values around.  You can also book any of
the trips around Placencia with confidence from
here, both offshore and inland, and also flights
within Belize.

A great new apartment right at the south end of
the village between Brenda's Restaurant and Paradise
Vacation Hotel (a recommended place to stay if
you're on a budget;  from US$12.50 to $22.50 double)
is Marlene's.  It is named for its owner, a friendly
and hard-working Placencian lady who's also a great
cook, which is why she has her restaurant below the
apartment.  This is the best studio apartment in the
village, with a double and a single bed, a kitchen
with a huge fridge, a new stove, and a large sink.
Outside a balcony runs along the front.  You can
watch the sunrise over Placencia Caye.  The price is
US$55 double, including a delicious breakfast.
Marlene's Restaurant is usually the first to open
for breakfast.  It serves good coffee and fantastic
home-made bread and cakes.  Lunch and dinner are
equally good, but the place is so tiny you have have
to book ahead.  For both the apartment and the
restaurant, call 501-6-23264.

Finally, a brief word about the best budget
place in Placencia, Dave and Debbie's Last Resort
(tel. [phone]).   Lovely clean rooms with wood
walls and floors at only US$18.75 double.  No
private baths here, but the bathrooms are spotless,
and you do get hot water.  Dave and Debbie's Last
Resort is sign-posted right by the road on the way
in to the village, easy to spot if you're arriving
by bus.

Since many people come here to dive, I would
like to recommend two of the best diving operations
in Placencia:  Deep End (tel. [phone] and fax
501-6-23295), located on the lagoon across from BJ's
Restaurant, near the north end of Placencia village,
offers the best prices, along with friendly,
competent service and good dockside facilities.
Also in Placencia is the long-established Placencia
Dive Shop (tel. [phone], fax [phone]),
located at the south end of the sidewalk by the main
dock.  They offer full-service diving and equipment
rental.  Both dive shops offer full certification
courses for around US$350.

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CORRECTION

The information on bus travel to Placencia in
Vol. III, No. 1 of BELIZE FIRST was partially
inaccurate.  According to Peter Eltringham, the bus
to Mango Creek is not the way to get to Placencia
unless you're coming from PG. From Belize City to
Dangriga, take the Z-Line bus (tel. [phone]) to
Dangriga via the coastal route, calling at Gales
Point village.  From Dangriga, the Promise Land bus
leaves from south of the bridge, by the Hub Guest
House, at 12:30 p.m., and the Z-Line leaves from the
new terminal at the south end of St. Vincent Street,
next to the Shell gas station.  Both run daily, fare
US$4 and normally pass through the villages of
Hopkins and Sittee River.  The journey from Dangriga
takes 2 1/2 to 3 hours, depending on road
conditions.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

ONE WAY TO RETIRE IN PLACENCIA

By PEGGY BOND ARBANAS

Bud Erdick and his wife Barbara have spent the past
two years retired and relaxing in Placencia.   When
I learned they were running a small restaurant I
began to wonder what had happened since I saw them
last year.

Back in the early 1970s when I lived in Placencia,
there was not a restaurant in town, few tourists,
fishermen still fished,  and you were lucky to have
a fresh cabbage every month. Now it takes about
three beers just to list the new restaurants,
resorts,  and night spots.

With a smile in his eye Bud told me,  "I realized I
had three choices:  read every book that has ever
been  written,  become an alcoholic,  or do
something.  A friend kept dropping hints that my
veranda would be an ideal spot for a cozy French
restaurant.   Then my landlord gave me a Christmas
present -- he enlarged our kitchen."

Opening La Petite Maison Restaurant over the initial
objection from Barbara --  "Not on your life!" --
has turned  into a pleasure for them both and for a
lot of their nightly guests.

Bud is a graduate of the French Culinary Institute.
He spent three years as sous chef of the
French/Belgian restaurant, Flamand,  in New York
City and was for seven years chef/owner of Pasquaney
Inn in New Hampshire,  rated, Bud says,  one of the
top restaurants in that state.

Three candle-lit tables on their veranda accommodate
eight people.  The price fixe dinner, at US$22 per
person,  includes an appetizer which could range
from cheese croquettes served on a bed of tomato
coulis to shrimp filled crepes with a sweet red
pepper sauce or it could be one of the many French
soups in Bud's repertoire.  Diners may choose from
two entrees,  usually one meat and one fish.   The
meat dish could be a Belgian specialty,  carbonades
of beef or a tenderloin filet, in a port wine sauce.
The fish dish could be a classic Lobster a
L'Americaine or wine-poached fillets of red snapper
in an Allemande caper sauce.  Home-baked French
bread, a dessert such as Creme BrulÄ e and freshly
brewed coffee or tea complete the meal.

If You Go:  La Petit Maison is located in the
Acupuncture Center just south of Wallen's Market in
Placencia Village.  Reservations can be made  in
person or by calling 501-6-23172.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

By VIC MOFFETT

One of the surprises along the reefs off the coast
of Belize is that, even while on a rough-and-ready
kayak trip, you can find good food.

I didn't expect gourmet dining in Belize.   As my
two new friends,  Caralin and Andy,  watched Mark
Leslie, our Belizean guide and lifelong resident of
Ranguana Caye, load the kayaks with groceries for
our six-day trip, the provisions promised meager
rations.  A couple pounds of rice, a few pounds of
beans, a dozen eggs, a head of cabbage, a couple of
handfuls of potatoes, onions, tomatoes and limes, a
few cans of bacon and tuna, some peanut butter and
jelly,  flour, cooking oil, coffee and powdered
milk, and a single papaya.

I began to wish I had packed a few MRE's -- United
States military Meals Ready to Eat -- which I
usually carry on my journeys along the Outer Banks
of North Carolina.

Our fears grew as high winds and heavy seas
prevented our scheduled departure, limiting fishing
to the shallow lagoons surrounding the island.  Mark
seemed unconcerned as the hooks came back empty and
twilight approached.

Then at dusk Mark strolled to the end of the island
where a conch and lobster fishman had set up camp.
One-half hour later we were dining on a sumptuous
stew with lavish chunks of lobster swimming in a
sauce from coconuts, which doubled as lethal weapons
as squalls lashed the island.

Such were our first lessons in the art of Belizean
coastal dining:  the food is fresh out of the sea,
plentiful and easily procured, often at the last
minute;   cooperation among those who find
themselves marooned together when meal time arrives
is virtually unspoken and is routinely conducted on
a barter system;   no one goes hungry, not even the
dogs which roam at large and feast on leftovers.
The next morning eggs, bacon, potatoes and fried
bread fortified us for the six-mile paddle in heavy
seas to the next island, Coconut Caye.

On arrival, a new camp was quickly set up.  While we
tourists eased our aching muscles after a day of
snorkeling and paddling,  Mark took his spear and
home-made sling and headed for the deep waters
beyond the reef.  We dined on sauteed steaks from a
three-foot barracuda Mark had speared. The light
flaky fish reappeared mixed with cabbage, tomatoes
and onions to make a delightful hash.  The island
people, Mark said, prefer barracuda even to lobster.
The hash and refried beans -- our dry beans had been
made inedible when they were soaked with salt water
as one of the kayaks took on water -- were made more
tasty by a staple of the Belizean diet, Marie
Sharp's habaû ero pepper sauce.  Ranging in degrees
of hotness from Wow! to Suicidal, this Belizean
product will light up the taste buds of even the
most jaded Texas Pete fan, and several bottles are a
must for returning tourists.

Soon we were at sea again, pausing briefly on a very
small caye covered with tropical foliage, Round
Caye,   before deciding to push on to a larger
island, Queen's Caye,  surrounded by what were said
to be some of the best reefs in the area.  Coral
heads and patches of grass and sand slid by below
us, perfectly visible as we paddled, and paddled,
and paddled.  We staggered ashore in late afternoon
and teamed up with another group of kayakers we had
met the night before.  All were close to exhaustion.
Even Mark -- an athlete with massive shoulders and a
lifetime of experience on the water -- said he was
too tired to fish.  Our party understood and were
willing to settle for canned tuna.

To snorkel as a tourist is one thing.  I barely dove
to depths of more than ten feet.  And Caralin and
Andy -- experienced scuba divers both -- rarely
descended to more that 30. But to hunt conch,
lobster and the larger fish, the Belizean fishermen
routinely dive to depths of 50 to 70 feet, remaining
submerged for more than two minutes.

Nevertheless Kevin -- the guide of the other party
and Mark's lifelong friend -- seemed eager to find a
good meal.  He was, he said, a bit discouraged by
his group's having brought along a plentiful supply
of freeze-dried camp food.

"Let's see what's in the garden today," Kevin said
as he picked up his spear and sling and the four-
foot steel hook used to gig lobster from their
lairs.  The garden was bountiful.  That night we
feasted on raw conch pounded tender and marinated in
lime juice, barracuda, snapper and hog fish filets
sauteed on a coconut husk fire, and more lobster,
lobster, lobster, including one Methuselah measuring
more than two feet and weighing more seven pounds.
Another lesson of the trip:  Many Belizeans do
consider the surrounding reefs an Eden, a place to
go to pick and choose among abundance.  The conch,
in fact, were not newly caught but came instead from
a natural holding pen constructed on the reef by the
island's resident caretaker and fisherman.  No money
was exchanged.  Mark and Kevin would find
replacements the next day, and the fisherman and his
family found fresh water from our abundant supply a
bonus in the deal.

Kevin's goal is to paddle the entire coastline of
Belize. What would such a voyage take?  A good kayak
and a few pounds of rice and beans.  He would catch
all the fish he needed.

Belizeans usually do not use the fancy rods and
reels tourists can be seen carrying through the
airports in PVC tubes.  A simple spindle of any
material, 20 yards of heavy monofilament, an
amazingly large hook, and fresh bait are enough.

//Vic Moffett is a free-lance writer who also
teaches composition and literature at Coastal
Carolina Community College in Jacksonville, North
Carolina.  The kayaking expedition was set up by
Kirk Barrett and Eddie Leslie of Reef-Link.//

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

Due to reader interest in real estate, BELIZE FIRST
offers the following listings of properties for
sale, exchange and wanted.  These listings are NOT
paid ads. They are being run at no charge as a
reader service.   BELIZE FIRST does not warrant the
facts or figures.  For more information, contact the
owner or real estate agent directly.  If you would
like to have your real estate notice run at no
charge, please  contact BELIZE FIRST.  All  prices
are in U.S. dollars.

REAL ESTATE WANTED
WANTED TO BUY:  10 acres of uncleared land in
Belize.  Will pay $200 an acre.  Michael Biggs, 3840
Cronk Rd., Allen, MI  49227.


TOLEDO DISTRICT

20 ACRES NEAR DEM DAT'S DOING:  Accessible,
safe,
and beautiful land.  20 miles from Punta Gorda on a
good year-round road.  Five miles from San Pedro
Columbia village and Lubaantun ruins.  Property
touches a small year-round creek.  Dem Dat's Doing,
the popular eco-tourism attraction, is across the
road.  There are good East Indian, Maya, American,
and Spanish neighbors within one or two miles.  The
property has long road front and can be easily
subdivided.  It rises slowly to a slight hill in the
back.  There are some high trees around 30 years old
and old corn and bean fields, lots of bearing fruit
trees of all kinds, young and old.  Title is free
and clear.  Sale price of US$15,000.  Purchaser pays
all attorneys fees and government taxes.  8% land
transfer tax for non-Belizeans.  Contact Diane
Gonzales, Box 75, Punta Gorda, Belize.  Tel. 501-7-
22119.

FOUR TRACTS IN TOLEDO DISTRICT, FROM
US$500
ACRE:
24 acres 6 miles from PG.  Riverside, cleared for
pasture, parts in high bush, all-season gravel road.
US$12,500.  20 acres next to all-year river, close
to Lubaantun, secondary growth, assorted fruit
trees, owner moved to city, no utilities, access via
farmer's road.  US$10,000.  30 acres, roadside on
all-year gravel road, secondary growth, close to
river and sea, 5 miles from PG:  US$15,000.  65
acres, road-side, with all-year creek, partially
fenced, access to electricity, assorted fruit trees,
plus cacao grove, caretaker on property, US$40,000.
Toledo Real Estate & Associates, P.O. Box 73, Punta
Gorda, Belize.  Tel. [phone], fax [phone].

SMALL RESORT AND 20 ACRES ON SITTEE RIVER:
3-
bedroom, 2 bath, 1,000 sq. ft. concrete house, 1
year-old, fully furnished.  Plus 7 well-built, fully
furnished cabaû as, 1 1/2 years-old.   Worker's
house, gift shop and gazebo.  16,000 gal. concrete
rainwater tank. Sale includes 1994 Nissan pick-up,
garden equipment, bikes, canoes, boats.  All on 20
acres, with river frontage, dock, citrus and other
trees.  Property has electricity from Dangriga, with
village water and phones soon.  Unexpected health
complication forces sale.  US$450,000.  Write
Neville Collins, Toucan Sittee, Sittee River
Village, Stann Creek District, Belize, C.A., or
leave message at 501-5-22006.

10.43 ACRES OF PRIME AGRICULTURAL LAND
EAST OF
SPANISH CREEK, US$600 PER ACRE.  Close to
Rancho
Dolores Village, in rural Belize District.  Robin
Roberts, Belize tel. [phone];    Internet e-
mail:  [e-mail].

SMALL RESORT ON PLACENCIA PENINSULA:  On
the beach.
Ideal owner-operated or could be managed.  Tel./fax
in Belize 501-6-22243.

BEACH-FRONT LOTS,  with all-season roads, power &
water. Outstanding location near pristine reefs,
river.  Directly adjacent to the Jaguar Reef Lodge
near Sittee Point and Hopkins.   $30,000 to $50,000.
Terms available.  Contact Jungle Sea Ventures in
Canada.  Tel./fax [phone].

$300 ACRE  Two prime 100-acre
farm/ranch/recreational properties available.
Close to main highway, Mayan ruins, lakes and rivers
nearby.  Many mature hardwood trees.  Vendor very
motivated and open to all offers and terms.  Each
parcel $30,000.  Contact BELIZE FIRST subscriber
Bruce Foerster, Jungle Sea Ventures  in British
Columbia, tel./fax [phone].


CAYE CAULKER

LOTS:  Two adjoining lots measuring 75' x 90' each
with an unfinished house. The property is adjacent
to the new airstrip. US$34,000.  Habib John
Gonzalez, Belize Real Estate, Langdon Supply Ltd.,
Box 15, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize. Tel: 011-
501-2-62090 or 2-62147, Fax: [phone].

SMALL OPERATING RESORT on approx. 1 3/4 acres
on
Caye Caulker.  Marl and cement cabaû as with
thatched roofs, all with bathrooms.  Also, large
cabaû a with living room, bedroom and bath, covered
walkway to kitchen and dining area.  Own well and
pier. Nice wooden building for laundry and storage.
$400,000.  Contact Mary Jo Wilson, The Anchorage,
Caye Caulker, Belize, C.A.  Tel. [phone].

AMBERGRIS CAYE

LOT WITH SEA VIEW:  50' x 100' buildable lot in
Flying Fisherman, high side of caye with permanent
easement and view of Caribbean and barrier reef.
US$20,000.  Down payment is approximately 25%,
balance is financed at 10%.  For further information
contact: JC Smith, P.O.  Box 1157,  Lake Oswego, OR
97035; tel. [phone].

SIX BUILDING LOTS on Coconut Dr. approx. 1 mile
south of San Pedro air strip.  City water and sewer.
Taxes $400.  300-foot walk to "Mar de Tumbo:
swimming beach.  Asking US$44,000 each.  Call 501-2-
77652 in Belize, or 201-835-2350 in U.S.  Fax in
U.S.: 201-835-5955.

ROOMS FOR RENT:  Three beach-front rooms on the
water at "Mar de Tumbo" swimming beach about 1 mile
south of San Pedro air strip.  A dock is at your
doorstep for diving, snorkeling, and fishing pick-
up.  Very reasonable weekly rates.  Available after
May 1, 1996.  Call 201-835-2350 or fax [phone].

MAYA BEACH

ELEGANT two-story residence on Placencia peninsula
at Maya Beach.  Three lots, including large, 97-foot
wide lot on beach.  White sand lined with palm
trees.  One lot behind contains the house
overlooking the Caribbean with a spacious garden.
Tropical flowering trees and fruit trees.  House
backs on to canal with dock leading to 11-mile
lagoon with sea access. Upstairs of house has living
room, dining room, bedroom, bath and kitchen, with
terrace in front.  Downstairs has self-contained
suite with bed/sitting room, bathroom and
kitchenette.  Car port.  Hot and cold water
throughout.  Generator house with 12-volt lighting.
Watchman's house.  Contact owner:  S. Horsley, c/o
Post Office, Placencia, Stann Creek District,
Belize.

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UPDATE

EYEWITNESS REPORTS FROM READERS

The latest word, good and bad, on lodges, inns,
hotels, resorts, restaurants , and destinations in
Belize, plus tidbits on related matters such as
knowledgeable guides or rip-offs, from BELIZE FIRST
readers and friends.  BELIZE FIRST will send a FREE
pound of delicious, fresh-roasted Central American
coffee from Mountain City Coffee, Asheville, North
Carolina,  to each reader providing an update.  Note
that the opinions expressed here are those of the
individuals, not necessarily of BELIZE FIRST.

AMBERGRIS CAYE
Victoria House:  We took a flight through Tropic Air
to Ambergris Caye and stayed at the Victoria House.
The accommodations were beautiful and the view was
all what I expected.  We stayed there for three
nights and simply enjoyed the tranquility of the
island.  The only thing we found disappointing at
the Victoria House was the buffet style meals.  We
found them to be unappealing because we paid a
considerable amount to stay at the Victoria House
and we expected to be more waited on for that money
and not to have to serve ourselves.  Gloria Granger,
Taunton, Massachusetts, February-March 1996

Victoria House:   Just got back from Ambergris Caye.
Had a wonderful time.  I couldn't believe how much
they had to offer there.  The reef diving offshore
had great coral, although big fish life was a bit
short.  The Manta IV trip to the Blue Hole and the
atolls was fantastic -- the diving out there was
really good.  We dropped down the buoy line at M&M
caverns and spotted a big blacktip right off.  Had a
great time on all the dives.  Did the shark park on
our last diving day.  It was a kick, too.  Our last
day we sat out from diving to off-gas before flying
out and decided to pass the time by going on a
snorkel run to the marine park (which we dove at
night -- another good dive) and had one of the best
times yet!  While free diving in the deep end, I
swam along within a yard of a stingray that was as
long as I am to take a close picture, came up for
air and pointed it out to my girlfriend, who was
pointing frantically at an an even bigger eagle ray
that was coming in towards us.  Never seen one
before - -what a beautiful creature.  It was a
fantastic afternoon, and we though it would be kind
of a ho-hum afternoon, snorkeling in the park!  Made
friends with some of the local dogs (girlfriend
wanted to bring one home with us).  Didn't wear
shoes for seven days and sure didn't want to come
back.  Couldn't believe how friendly the people
were.  Everyone on the street gives a friendly
greeting, and we never felt uneasy walking about at
night.  We'll be back soon.  Chas Dickson, Bosier
City, Louisiana, September 1995

OTHER CAYES

I just got back from a week's diving in St. George's
Cay.  The weather was bad (Opal and Roxanne passed
about 100 miles north at the start and end of the
week), so there were only two sunny days.  But the
diving was very good.  Fish were congregating and
migrating, and schools were everywhere: moon
jellyfish by the thousands, surgeonfish and blue
tangs by the hundreds, angelfish (mostly gray and
French) by the score; even the blue parrotfish and
groupers were hanging around in gangs. I swam with a
school of more than 100 gray angelfish; I'd never
seen more than a pair together before.  Lobsters,
shrimp, hermit crabs, and moray eels were in normal
abundance.

The abundance of smaller fish attracted larger
animals: turtles, groupers, and sharks.  In one
case, we found two nurse sharks and three groupers
settled in the sand staking out a small coral head,
inside of which were four very worried surgeonfish.
One of the groupers refused to leave even
when we settled down in the sand to watch the show.
In another, we found a hawksbill turtle nestled
under a coral head; we were able to pet the shell
without waking him (or her?) up.  We even saw a reef
shark or two.

Visibility was OK at the start of the week but
deteriorated steadily. The rain and winds created a
layer of green soup which spread down from
the surface; by the end of the week, visibility was
down to 25 feet. This made surfacing through the
jellyfish hordes hazardous.  Fortunately,
moon jelly stings are fairly mild.  Despite the
hurricanes, only one day dive was washed out by
weather; but night diving was not possible.

I stayed at St.  George's Lodge, a small resort run
personally by its owner, Fred Good.  The food,
always reputed to be good, was outstanding; Fred's
friend Fran has diversified the menu (Asian and
Mexican influences) and reduced the fat content
while maintaining top-notch quality.  (Lobster
twice, fresh fish twice, homemade soup and bread at
lunch and dinner, etc.,  etc.)  Fred goes on every
dive (and Fran goes often), so every dive was a
guided tour through the best parts of the reef.
There were only four divers, and for a couple of
days only me, providing highly personalized diving.
(Although this is low season, the resort is usually
not full, except at Christmas, and in any case can
only hold 15 couples maximum.)

Fred has Nitrox as well as normal compressed air.
The Nitrox is used strictly for increased safety;
all dives are no-decompression dives, even against
air tables or an air-calibrated computer.  I got
Nitrox certified while I was there.  In summary:
great diving and a great resort.  I am told that
April-May provides the most reliable conditions, in
terms of wind and weather;
October, being hurricane season, is always a risk.
But the schooling and migrating fish are only to be
seen this time of year and were well worth the less
than perfect conditions.  Bob Supnik, October 1996

Turneffe Island Lodge is under new management and
has undergone a major face lift.  Phil Lanier,
Chicago, February-March 1996

NORTHERN BELIZE/ORANGE WALK DISTRICT

Maruba:  We had a wonderful stay at Maruba where the
staff was magnificent. We felt quite pampered and
they were quite accommodating.  I am a vegetarian
and found them to be very accommodating with
arranging special meals for me.  We took the tour to
Lamanai through Maruba and it was wonderful.
Gloria Granger, Taunton, Massachusetts, February-
March 1996

Lamanai:  You do not have to go by boat if you do
not want to spend the money. It can be done very
cheaply by car, on a pleasant road. There is a good
hotel before coming into Orange Walk (right past the
toll bridge) called the New River Park Hotel, which
can cut the trip to Chan Chich if you are coming
from somewhere else than Belize City.  You can also
arrange for private tours on the New River if you
don't want to join a tour.   Chan Chich:   A must.
If you hesitate because of the price, don't. Save on
something else, but treat yourself to Chan Chich. It
is well worth the price of a cabana. If on a budget,
skip their  breakfast and lunch by bringing your
own.  The trails are great, the wildlife abundant
and fantastic and the general bird and howler monkey
cacophony a sheer delight.   Compared to prices of
other resorts in Belize, you really get value for
your money.   Bernardo Villanueva is the gate keeper
at the entrance of the Bowen ranch, at the second
check point on the road coming from Orange Walk, the
first checkpoint being for the Project for Belize
land.   Mr. Villanueva is a very interesting fellow
who has a lot of interesting stories.  I encourage
travelers to stop and chat with him for a while. His
wife is a Guatemalan refugee and also has some
amazing and very sad stories to tell (Spanish only).
Villanueva speaks English.  Laurent Martres, Alta
Loma, California, February 1996

CAR RENTALS
Avis:   We were truly disappointed with Avis rentals
in that when we arrived in Belize City our vehicle
wasn't ready and we had to wait 90 minutes for our
Suzuki Samurai.  We were told that they had to put
the door back on.  When the car arrived, it was
awful.  We paid US$375 for a five-day rental and the
car had 120,000 miles on it and it was falling
apart.  With that kind of money, Avis could invest
more in their vehicles and make tourists a little
more happy.  We couldn't wait to get rid of it,  and
by the way,  it died exactly in front of the airport
when we returned it.  Gloria Granger, Taunton,
Massachusetts, February-March 1996

We confirm that Avis is the pits. We had pre-
reserved a Samurai;  we found a car with over
100,000 miles on the odometer and practically no
tread on the tires. We had to refuse the car and the
other Samurai they had on the lot after we had
already done all the paperwork.  There were no other
cars available either at the airport or their off-
site location.   We eventually rented an Isuzu
Trooper in good condition, with relatively low
mileage (65,000) and most of all, with good tires,
from Travel Belize, two doors down from Avis.  We
negotiated the price down to US$65 a day for 9 days,
the same price Avis wanted for the pitiful Samurai.
This was our first clue that everything is
negotiable in Belize.  (Except for the fanciest and
busiest hotels, we found that everything is
negotiable. When the place was not very full, we
always got somewhere around 20 percent discount just
by asking.   Prices are very high for what you get,
so we felt justified to ask.)  Pancho's car rental,
next door to Travel Belize, also had a Trooper in
very good condition.  It looks like there are always
cars available at the airport. If we had to do it
again, we would be willing to take our chances,
arrive at the airport without a reservation and
negotiate a car on the spot.

In general, we were pleasantly surprised with road
conditions. [Editor's note:  Also see the extensive
report on road conditions in all parts of Belize in
Vol. III, No. 1 of BELIZE FIRST.] All roads were in
fairly good conditions in February. If you have been
doing some off-roading in the Western United States,
you should find the roads very acceptable, at least
during the dry season.  We never had to use
4WD...however, the clearance and bump absorption of
a 4WD vehicle such as the Trooper will make a long
trip much more comfortable.  The Southern Highway is
still not asphalted;  however it has been graded
recently and some can drive it at 55 mph (if you are
in a hurry to reach Placencia). There are a few
occasional potholes that must be avoided.   The road
from Orange Walk to Chan Chich is actually very good
and quite pleasant. It can be done in a leisurely
three hours. The side trip from San Felipe to
Lamanai is on a very good road which has been
recently graded (courtesy of the Mennonite
community). According to  the locals, it is passable
year-round, unless there is exceptional flooding.
On a side note, you are regarded as somewhat of a
curiosity by the other guests at Chan Chich when you
arrive by car.  Laurent Martres, Alta Loma,
California, February 1996

BELIZE CITY

Four Fort Street and Colton House:   We stayed one
night at Four Fort Street and one night at Colton
House; both very nice. We give the edge to Colton.
The old rooms without private baths are gone,
though, and all  rooms are now US$48.50.  Laurent
Martres, Alta Loma, California, February 1996

CAYO DISTRICT
Eva's Restaurant and Bar still offers one of the
best food values in the Cayo. As an example, the
"salbutes" are tasty open-face tacos with plenty
of fixings on top. They go for US$.50 apiece; three
of these make a generous meal. While there, ask
owner Bob Jones anything regarding trips or lodging
in the area. Jones is known around the country as a
one man information  bureau.   Martha's Kitchen and
Guesthouse, 10 West Street, San Ignacio is a great
place for a reasonably priced meal or room and draws
an interesting mix of Europeans  and Americans.
Breakfast is about US$3.50, a steak dinner about $5.
Family run, Martha's rooms cost about US$15 single,
$18.50 double. They  also run a same-day laundry
service from a side door.

B&M Bike Rental, 26 Burns Ave., San Ignacio, is out
of business. Chaa Creek bought the bikes and is
renting them through Bob Jones at Eva's Restaurant
and Bar, 22 Burns Ave.   JB's Watering Hole, Mile
32,  Western Highway, 501-1-48098, has a new French
manager, Danielle. She's fixing French food for
lunch and dinner. You can  check each day to see
what's on the menu. Rancho los Amigos is closed at
the moment.  No one, not even Bob Jones, knows when
it may reopen.   Maya Hotel & Cafe, Hudson Street,
501-9-23625, used to be the Maxima Hotel.

Riverside Resort, Bullet Tree, 501-9-22245 is a new
lodging overlooking Bullet Tree Falls.

San JosÄ  Succotz, Western Highway, offers the
perfect opportunity to mix with locals. Every
afternoon around 4 p.m. the local children head for
the river for an afternoon swim. Join them for a
refreshing dip and a chance to feel a part of a
small Mopan Indian town.  Phil Lanier, Chicago,
February-March 1996

Windy Hills:  We then headed to San Ignacio and on
our way stopped at Altun Ha and the Belize Zoo, both
worth the stop.  We then stayed at Windy Hills in
San Ignacio.  This was also an added treat and again
I felt that they were very accommodating.  We
explored Mountain Pine Ridge and the views were
beautiful. Gloria Granger, Taunton, Massachusetts,
February-March 1996

TIKAL

Many people ask what is the best way to go to Tikal.
There are probably several good ways of doing it,
but here is the best way to do it from San Ignacio.
Unless you have a special interest in Maya culture
and/or archaeology, it is sufficient to devote one
day to Tikal.  Car rental companies won't let you
take the car out of the country and it would be a
pain to cross the boarder anyway.

Several companies offer minibus tours from San
Ignacio for about US$75 per person. After shopping
around and observing the various minibuses that take
people, we determined that Windy Hills Resort offers
the best deal. Here is why:

Ñ  they have the nicest, most comfortable vans (more
modern and larger than the others), a very important
factor considering the state of the road  in
Guatemala

Ñ their price includes Tikal entry fees, Guatemalan
visa fees and lunch in Tikal

Ñ  they go straight through, meaning you do not
change vans at the border, because they use
Guatemalan born guides (official Tikal guides must
be from Guatemala)

Ñ because they are faster, they start at 7:30 a.m.
and you are back at 6 p.m.

Ñ they are very close to the border, which provides
an additional savings in time

Ñ both our guide and driver were terrific.

In comparison, Maya Mountain lodge offered no lunch,
a 6 a.m. departure (which they  presented as an
advantage --  "you'll spend more time in Tikal") and
required that you change vans at the border. Most of
the trip is done in a micro-van; not necessarily
bad, but it's slower and less comfortable. Most
other resorts operate in the same way, with a change
to a Guatemalan van at the border.  Windy Hills will
pick you up at any hotel in town.  Across the street
from Windy Hills, you can stay more economically at
the Log Cab-Inn.  Very nice people (US$45 to $55 per
cabin).

Pencil in hand, we calculated the cost of other
options with Bob, the famous owner of Eva's
restaurant and unofficial 'Tourist Informationer in
Cayo. Unless you are going to stay overnight in
Tikal, it is not worth the trouble to do it on your
own by taking the bus. You are better off with a
tour.  Many people are worried about robberies and
bus being attacked. No such fears. It is largely a
thing of the past. There was one incident in
December, but the bus driver was able to negotiate
and nobody was robbed or harmed. Nevertheless, it is
a good idea not to take anything too valuable with
you when you go to Tikal, just in case.   Laurent
Martres, Alta Loma, California, February 1996

SOUTHERN BELIZE

Bill Bird Lodge in Big Creek burned to the ground
last fall.  Pelican Beach is expanding facilities on
South Water Caye with the refurbishment of a former
religious retreat -- they're calling it the Convent
and it's nearly finished. Co-owner Tony Rath will
also soon have a Web site at
http://www.belizenet.com/.

Jungle Huts Hotel, Ecumenical Drive, Dangriga (tel.
501-5-23166) is a contradiction. The rooms are clean
enough, but the area surrounding the property  is so
unattractive (junked cars, blasted trees and such)
that travelers  can be put off. One couple who had
reservations there drove on when they caught sight
of it.  Toucan Sittee, Sittee River, (tel. 501-5-
22006) has expanded its operation, adding  another
cabin. As it stands there are three cabins on stilts
and a main house. The cabins have cold water and
private baths for around US$6 per person. The food,
based on local dishes, is especially tasty and costs
between US$2.50 and $5 per person.

Jaguar Reef Lodge, Hopkins (tel.  [phone]),  has
the nicest accommodations between Pelican Beach and
the Placencia Peninsula. Food is excellent and
the staff is well trained. They had plenty of
business while we were there. Their boast that they
are well situated for trips into the Cockscomb
Preserve and out to the reefs is correct.  However,
the boat trip to the reef is considerable and
accounts for prices that seem a bit steep. Jaguar
Reef has not cleared the sea grass from the water
just off the beach, and at first, this posed a
problem for my wife. I kept trying to get her to
snorkel out and look at my latest discovery --
starfish, conch, forms of algae. Nothing doing! But
when the manatees began feeding just 30 feet from
shore she was glad for the grass.  Phil Lanier,
Chicago, February-March 1996

Cockscomb Preserve:  We had arranged to spend the
night by reserving with the Audubon Society. This is
not for people used to comfort. Be ready to rough
it. Lotsa mosquitoes that will bite you through your
sheet, rats, roaches, bats in the room and
uncomfortable foam mattresses. However, at night,
the warden says good by, returns to Maya Center and
you are left alone in the middle of the jungle and
that is truly a nice experience. Of the 60 jaguars
in the preserve, only two sporadically frequent the
eastern area where the campground and trails are
located, so chances are you will only see birds and
a few  mammals.   If you don't spend the night in
Cockscomb, it may not be worth coming at all.  Birds
are all gone after 8:30 a.m. and are in bed at 6
p.m.   Laurent Martres, Alta Loma, California,
February 1996

GENERAL

The feeling in Belize is that the impending VAT,
along with other price increases for archeological
sites, the Zoo, Blue Hole and departure tax will
adversely affect tourism. I couldn't agree more. My
first impression of Belize was that it was pricey
compared to Mexico. That impression remains today.
When Cuba finally opens up, Belize most likely will
experience a drop in investment and tourism traffic
as these will flow more readily to a country with
even greater untapped potential.  Phil Lanier,
Chicago, February-March 1996

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

RECOMMENDED HOTELS IN BELIZE

The following list of recommended hotels is NOT by
any means all-inclusive, but these are some that
have been found to be visitor-friendly and offer
good value in the price category.   Hotels of
special note, due to excellent value, friendly
owners, attractive style, or special Belizean charm
are highlighted in bold.   Price range:  A (over
US$110 double);  B (US$50 to $110 double);  C (under
US$50 double).  Rates are for typical rooms without
meals,  may vary by season or with specials, and are
subject to change.  Rates shown do not include
government tax of 7% or service.

NORTH OF BELIZE CITY:  Chan Chich Lodge, Gallon
Jug,
A;  Casablanca, Consejo, A;  Crooked Tree Resort,
Crooked Tree, B;  Lamanai Outpost, Lamanai, B;
Tony's, Corozal, B;   Blue Heron Cove, Sarteneja, C.

BELIZE CITY:    Ramada Royal Reef, A;  Radisson Ft.
George, A;  Chateau Caribbean, B;  Four Fort Street
Guesthouse, B;   Colton House, C;   Glenthorne
Manor, C; Hotel Mopan, C;  Bakadeer, C.

CAYO DISTRICT:  Chaa Creek Cottages, A;  Hidden
Valley Inn, A;   duPlooy╒s, A;  Blancaneaux Lodge,
A;  Banana Bank Ranch, B;   Maya Mountain Lodge, B;
Mountain Equestrian Trails (M.E.T.), B;  Windy Hill
Cottages, B;  Hotel San Ignacio, B;  Ek╒Tun, B;
Bull Frog Inn, B;  Nabitunich, B;  Parrot╒s Nest, C;
Las Casitas, C; Venus Hotel, C.

AMBERGRIS CAYE:  Victoria House, A;  Belize Yacht
Club, A;  Captain Morgan╒s Retreat, A;  Journey╒s
End, A;  Ramon╒s Village, A;  Paradise Resort, A;
Paradise Villas, A;  Sun Breeze, A;  Rock's Inn, A;
Caribbean Villas, B;  Spindrift Hotel, B;  Barrier
Reef, B; Changes in Latitude, B;  Ruby╒s, C.

CAYE CAULKER:  Tropical Paradise, B/C;  Rainbow
Hotel, C;  Vega╒s  Inn, C;   Jimenez's Cabaû as, C;
Sea Beezzz Guest House.

OTHER CAYES: St. George╒s Lodge, St. George Caye,
A;
Blackbird Caye Resort, Turneffe Islands, A;
Lighthouse Reef Resort, Lighthouse Reef, A;
Spanish Bay Resort, Spanish Lookout Caye, A; Manta
Reef Resort, Southwest Caye, A;  Blue Marlin Lodge,
South Water Caye, A; Reef╒s End, Tobacco Caye, B;
Cottage Colony, St. George╒s Caye, B;   Reef's End,
Tobacco Caye, B;  Glover╒s Atoll Resort, Long Caye,
C.;  Ranguana Reef Resort, B.

PLACENCIA:  Rum Point Inn, A;  Kitty╒s Place, B;
Turtle Inn, B;  Singing Sands, B;  Nautical Inn, B;
Green Parrot;  French Quarter Belize, B;  Deb &
Dave's Last Resort, C.;  Seine Bight Hotel, C.

COCKSCOMB NATURE RESERVE:  Dormitory Cabins,
C.

DANGRIGA:  Pelican Beach Resort, B.

PUNTA GORDA:  Fallen Stones Butterfly Ranch, A; St.
Charles Inn, B;  Nature╒s Way Guest House, C.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

QUIK GUIDE TO BUYING AND INVESTING IN
BELIZE

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS:  Valid passport required.
Birth certificates will NOT suffice.  Visitors from the
U.S.,
Canada and most other countries do NOT need visas.
Entry is normally for 30 days.

LANGUAGE:  English, with Spanish widely spoken.
Also, Garifuna, Mayan and German.

COMMUNICATIONS:  The Belize telephone system is
one
of the best in the region, with a modern fibre-optics
network.  Cellular and paging services available.
International calls are expensive -- about US$1.60 per
minute for direct dialed calls to North America.  Direct
Internet access available through the local telephone
monopoly, Belize Telecommunications, Ltd.  Mail service
is generally reliable.  Letters to the U.S. from Belize City
take about a week.

BANKING:  Belize's banks are tiny by U.S. standards.
The largest, Belize Bank, has assets of under US$120
million.  U.S. dollar accounts in a Belize bank are
possible,
but most expats maintain an account with a bank in the
U.S. in addition to any local account.

ELECTRICITY:  Same as in the U.S. and Canada, 110
volts AC.

CURRENCY:  Belize dollar, fixed at 2 Belize dollars to 1
U.S. dollar.  The U.S. dollar is widely accepted, as are
traveler's checks and credit cards (the latter sometimes
with
a surcharge).

REQUIREMENTS FOR IMMIGRATION &
CITIZENSHIP:   Belize "welcomes immigrants who are in
a position to come here and establish themselves without
government assistance for ... agricultural purposes, either
on a small holding or a plantation basis, industrial
development or sponsored employment by established
commercial organizations" says the Belize Immigration and
Nationality Service.  Immigrants must have a medical
exam, provide a police reports, and show evidence that
funds are available to finance the proposed business. The
government now offers an Economic Passport program,
requiring an investment of US$25,000 ($50,000 per
family, with children over 18 paying an additional
$15,000), plus a deposit of US$50,000.  A scandal
developed earlier this year involving the alleged sale of
immigration papers to Taiwanese.  Responsibility for
immigration has been transferred to the Foreign Affairs
Ministry.

LEGAL SYSTEM:  Like that of the U.S, Belize's derives
from English common law, where innocence is presumed.

PERMANENT RESIDENCY:  If you are a citizen of the
U.S, Canada or some other countries, retired or otherwise
do not work, permanent-resident status is possible.  You
retain your present citizenship and have most rights of
Belizean citizens except the right to vote and serve in the
army.  It costs US$350 to apply, per household.  You will
need a letter from your bank -- no specific amount of funds
are necessary, but you must show you are a responsible
person with some assets -- medical form, work permit if
you are of working age (even if you don't plan to work),
police clearance letter and birth certificate.  It usually takes
less than six months for approval.  During this time you
will need to keep your entry permit up-dated -- that
requires
either leaving or re-entering the country every 30 days, or
visiting Belmopan or Belize City and paying US$12.50
per
month.  It can be paid in a six-month lump sum.  Note:
application for permanent residency by citizens of Central
American and some other countries involves a different
procedure.

PURCHASING PROPERTY:  Non-Belizeans CAN buy
property in Belize.  Purchases of 10 acres or less in a rural
area or 1/2 acre or less within city limits require no special
approval.   There is a land transfer tax of 8% for non-
Belizeans and 5% for Belizeans, typically paid by the
purchaser.  Attorneys fees and other closing costs runs to
several percent of the sales prices.  Property taxes are 1 to
1.5% of value annually, higher in cities. New VAT applies
to some real estate transactions.  Most tax bills are
nominal.
Work with a knowledgeable attorney or other adviser in
Belize to assure that title and other papers are sound.
Citizens and those officially resident in Belize for at least 3
years can lease land from the government for a few dollars
a year.  Once a land is cleared and a residence is built, the
land can be bought from the government for under
US$500.

REAL ESTATE PRICES:  Raw land still is cheap in
Belize,
especially in rural areas.   In large tracts, it often goes for
only a few dollars an acre, and usually under $100 an acre,
but $100 to $1,000 an acre in smaller tracts.  Surveying
costs may exceed the purchase price.  Waterfront land has
risen in price by 10 times or more in recent years, and is
now US$1000 a front foot on Ambergris and some other
areas.  North-American style houses are priced only a little
lower than similar properties in, say,  Florida, but
Belizean-
style homes can be inexpensive to buy or rent.  Building
prices vary -- labor is cheap but slow, and imported
materials prices are high.  A nice home can be built for
US$25 to $35 a square foot.

TAXES:  Generally, non-Belizeans in Belize pay tax only
on income derived in Belize.  The progressive income tax
maxes out at 45%, 35% on corporate income. A VAT of
about 15% introduced in April 1996 applies to most goods
except hotel rooms, medicines, basic food items, and some
other goods.  The VAT is supposed to  replace some
import
taxes (which are now up to 80%) and the gross receipts tax
of 1 to 2%.

WORKING IN BELIZE:  Possible but difficult for most.
Unemployment is officially 12% in Belize and the actual
rate may be higher.  Minimum wage is US$.75 to
US$2.50.  Although Belize needs skilled workers, permits
for work in tourism or retailing are difficult to get (unless
you are investing) and professionals such as physicians
also find it difficult to get a license to practice.

INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITIES:  100% foreign
ownership of Belize companies is permitted, although the
government encourages Belizean participation.  Tax
abatements and holidays are available.  Investment is
especially sought in agriculture.  Products must be
exportable, as the home market is small. There are also
opportunities in tourism.  The International Business
Company (IBC) Act of 1990 and the Trust Act of 1992
were passed, in part, to increase foreign investment in
Belize.  These laws protect investments in Belize from
appropriation or taxation.  IBCs do not pay income taxes
and do not file income or dividend statements with Belize
or
other governments. Shareholders are not identified.

COST OF LIVING:  Belize can be surprisingly expensive,
especially if you try to live in a U.S. style.  Because so
much is imported, the Belizean market is small and
inefficient, and import taxes are high, many items
purchased in Belize, such as appliances, cars and
supermarket items, cost twice what they would in the U.S.
There are no Wal-Marts or McDonald'ses in Belize.  Still,
if
you live closer to the Belizean style, it can be affordable,
especially outside Ambergris Caye and Belize City.

TIME:  Theoretically same as US Central Standard Time
(GMT minus 6) -- but in practice Belize time is a bit
different. Daylight Savings Time is not observed.

FORM OF GOVERNMENT:  Belize, until 1973 known as
British Honduras,  is a parliamentary democracy  and  a
member of the British Commonwealth.   The country has a
tradition of democracy and free elections.  The most-recent
national election, in June 1993, saw the United Democratic
Party's Manuel Esquivel regain the post of prime minister
that he lost in 1989 to People's United Party  veteran
leader
George Price.   Both parties are centrist, with the UDP
being considered somewhat more conservative and pro-
U.S.  There are several minority parties.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:  Belize First Magazine will
publish a new edition on living and retiring in Belize in
1996.  Two small books are starting points:  Belize
Retirement Guide by Bill and Claire Gray, $19.95, and
1995 Guide to Business, Investment and Retirement, by
George W. Rea, $29.95.  For facts on investing, contact
the Ministry of Economic Development, P.O. Box 42,
Belmopan, or Embassy of Belize, 2535 Massachusetts
Ave. NW, Washington, DC  20008.   For residency
matters, contact Immigration and Nationality,  Ministry of
Foreign Affairs,  Belmopan.


####################################

BELIZE FIRST is published quarterly by Equator
Travel Publications, Inc., 280 Beaverdam Road,
Candler, NC  28715  USA.  Fax [phone].  E-mail:
Internet, [e-mail]; CompuServe,
74763,2254;  America On-Line, LSluder374.

Mail subscriptions for the "collector's" full
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year in other countries.  Electronic text-only
editions of BELIZE FIRST are available on
CompuServe, America On-Line, and the Internet.  Also
visit our new Internet Web site at
http://www.turq.com/belizefirst.